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Cracked Wall
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Third Crack T 
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Third Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Al Long, Alan Rubin, August 1980
Page Views: 316
Submitted By: percious on Oct 29, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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BETA PHOTO: Third Crack


Find the right-most crack which drops into a large overhang. The overhang is fun to pull if you want to start it that way. Follow the crack to the ledge above. There is a good crack at the top to set a belay, or you can hike up to the pine trees and set one from there. The crux section is pulling through the bulge in the center of the climb, but it is well protected. The rest of the route is pretty sustained, but there are some rests. Most people consider this route 5.7+.


Standard CT Rack.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Third Crack
BETA PHOTO: Third Crack

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By Kurtz
Oct 1, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Looks safer than it is. A lot of the crack is flared and does not take pro very well. It's not a long route so place as much as you can, when you can.

You can create toprope anchors at the trees or by slinging the block at the top with a cordelette.
By bergschrund
Nov 8, 2012

I disagree with it not taking pro very well. There's great gear the whole way. The pro may be a little strenuous to place at the bottom, but if you get your body into good position you can hang on and find bomber gear. Getting up underneath the overhang you have to make a couple moved where your feet are ~2 feet above your gear, but other than that you're never far from your last piece. Also, pulling the crux is super well protected by either smaller cams or nuts.

Awesome climbing, well protected, a must do moderate if you come to Pinnacle.
By Kurtz
May 8, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

uhhhh...Dude, you decked from 25 feet up when all of your pro blew! At least you didn't land on me. ;^)
By Morgan Patterson
From: CT
May 8, 2013

Ha... glad all are okay but I think this is really funny. Typical CT stuff here... oh yeah great gear, until you actually fall on it.
By micah richard
From: Litchfield, Connecticut
Aug 22, 2013

i thought the gear was fine , after avoiding leading it for a long time because of all the talk of bad gear. Takes bomber stoppers in several spots, a red c-3 works well in the thin crack, block section before the bulge crux. All textbook placements, spaced out a bit in places, but what you get is solid. Unless you fall on it? Not sure P.G. is justified. Maybe G-PG?
By Nic the brit
Jul 20, 2014
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The gear on this route is fine but it takes a lot of fiddling and turning some of the nuts so they are flat. I had some trepidation before setting off but soon relaxed when I found good gear. I had to pull some out on abseil as they were jammed in so hard.
By David Schlenz
Jul 23, 2017

I thought the gear was plenty sufficient and the less-than-vertical face along with ample foot placements allow for the bit of creativity and fiddling around with nuts that Nic the Brit noted above. Also, the less-than-vert face makes the bulge much more manageable than it may appear when viewed directly from below.

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