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Think Pink 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 9,278
Submitted By: George Bell on Nov 29, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (117)
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Paco on Think PINK

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


If you like Supercrack, you'll love this one too. Head up to the far left side of the cliff, left of Crack Attack and the squeeze chimney Grits and Grunt. This is an obvious right facing dihedral with a hand/fist crack that heads through a sizable roof. Just left of this crack is a horrendous looking (unnamed) 5.11 offwidth.

Jam up the crack, if you have large hands, you can hand jam through the roof, otherwise it will be fists. Continue on up to a 2 bolt anchor at 100'.


Many #3 Friends, plus doubles (at least) in the range #1.5 to #3.5 Friend. Camalots are not ideal for the route as much of the crack is at the wide end of a #2 and too narrow for the #3.

Photos of Think Pink Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason cleaning Think Pink.
Jason cleaning Think Pink.
Rock Climbing Photo: Think Pink in all its glory.
Think Pink in all its glory.
Rock Climbing Photo: the route
the route
Rock Climbing Photo: hate to burst anyone's bubble, but the rock qualit...
hate to burst anyone's bubble, but the rock qualit...
Rock Climbing Photo: Robbie w/ the trusty catch
Robbie w/ the trusty catch
Rock Climbing Photo: think big hands
think big hands
Rock Climbing Photo: think pink
think pink
Rock Climbing Photo: Crank'n
Rock Climbing Photo: Finishing the route after I blew the onsight.  My ...
Finishing the route after I blew the onsight. My ...
Rock Climbing Photo: I'm at the anchor in this pic
I'm at the anchor in this pic
Rock Climbing Photo: Me a little ways before I fell out of the thing.  ...
Me a little ways before I fell out of the thing. ...

Comments on Think Pink Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 15, 2016
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Mar 11, 2002
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

What George is forgetting to mention is that the climb is hands for his bear-paws, and fists for tiny, tiny hands, but for average to small hands, it's off hands, or off fists. Thus, it's also a little harder than 5.11a. YMMV.
By Anonymous Coward
Aug 6, 2002

There is a nice alternative to starting in the right facing dihedral that avoids some loose blocks. Look left around the corner and climb a kinda dirty but still nice handcrack. It curves right and joins the climb just below the good stuff.
By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002

I have big hands and the climb felt more like solid 5.10. The size is to small for a #3 Camalot but just at the end of the #2 Camalot range. The tarango hand size worked well which is like #2.5 Camalot(if one existed ). I recomend this climb for the leader on the verge of breaking into the 11 range, those with big hands.
By Bryson Slothower
Mar 28, 2005
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I did this route last week and also have pretty big hands. I felt the grade was true. 11-
By superagave
Feb 28, 2006

I have big hands with small fingers (I know, I am a mutant). I found this to be awkward, almost rattle teacups, with the occasional tight fist.
By Rob Kepley
From: Westminster,CO
Oct 15, 2006

Great climb. Mostly good hands with "cupped hands thru the middle section (#3 Camalot). Total classic.
By m-earle
From: USA
Oct 30, 2006

i have fairly small hands, and this climb was a struggle. in the roof, i couldn't get jams, nor could i get fist's. i had to lie-back parts of the roof, whitch made it hard to place gear.
sick climb for sure.
By Dpurf
From: Superior
Mar 19, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I would not call this a Classic, because of the Sh*t rock at the start. But it is a very good climb and one you should do. The rating on this climb is all based on hand size. Big hands have fun. Small hands, pray to stay in, average hands, move fast through the lower part of the crack. And for the guy who is looking for a 2.5 BD, there is one out there. It is call a 3.0 WC Friend. It works great.
By Tavis Ricksecker
Nov 26, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

A #2 camalot, then #3.5 friend, then back to #2 camalots. Only slightly wide at the steep bit for those with big hands. If you have big hands and you cruised Supercrack, this one should be a cruise too. I found the exit moves at the top more tricky than the steep bit.
By Jonas Wiklund
Dec 12, 2007
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Friend #3 is the perfect size for much of this climb. For my size of hands this is by far the easiest of all the 11's I climbed during a months stay.
By Rob Duncan
From: Salt Lake City
May 19, 2008

I would agree #2 camalots are not ideal, but I felt really secure placing all #2's (with one #3 in the wide section just past the roof) on this one. Don't pass it up if you only have BD gear... Really an amazing line! warm up on pigs in space and then cruise this one.
By claytown
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009

Although the start climbs past some broken rock in the crack, the roof is more than worth it! I places camalot 2s and 3s in the roof and thought it was just fine. AFter the TR is set you can easily start right where you lower off and climb that other crack past most of the choss.

There is one wedged flake where I placed a .5 on one side and a .75 on the other side, clipping the rope to the .5 biner and clipping the .75 to the .5 loop in hopes that if I had fallen the two pieces would exert force at the same time and pinch that rock into place instead of just pushing it out of the way... might have worked but glad I didn't find out.
By Bowie Pearson
From: Portland, OR
Mar 30, 2015
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I found that two #3 friends were money for what was the crux section of the overhang for me. I have small hands (can jam down to .75's) but I LOVE this route - absolutely worth leading if you're a thin hands person but love #3's like I do!
By Mark van Eijk
Apr 7, 2016
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

Fun, but exhausting, like the love-child of Supercrack and Incredible hand crack. Start is on broken flakes, not super-inspiring but fine. Sustained big hands through a long overhang. Save some juice for the awkward, flaring finish.

If leading on BD, the start will take doubles from #0.5-#1. From there it's multiple iterations of tipped-out #2 and some slammed #3, but definitely heavy on the #2s. In many places the crack narrows a bit further in, so you can shove a bad #2 deeper and it will fit.
By Jeff Scheuerell
Apr 9, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I really enjoyed this route and although the start is less than perfect as far as rock quality and protection, it isn't that bad and for me took very little away from this steller line. I first climbed it on tr about 20 years ago with a young guy named Oliver from Laramie, I think. Lead it just a couple of weeks ago and loved it. Won't say it was easy but it felt soft even at 10+ for my hand size. I can see this thing being way harder with even just a little bit smaller hands and maybe even as easy as 10- with bigger hands. I remember twice down low thinking stoppers would be nice. Also # 3 friends seemed better than 2C4s.
By Sean
From: Oak Park, CA
Oct 15, 2016

also led with BD's, placing 0.4 to 0.75 for bottom section, then six #2's and three #3's. #3 Friends would be ideal, but manageable with the BD's

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