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Thing In Between 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim Kanzler, Pat Callis '75
Page Views: 2,505
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Apr 17, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
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BETA PHOTO: Beta Photo for Thing In Between.


p.1- Climb the crack between First Best and Tigger, pulling through an odd bulge near the top. End on the ledge. 80', 5.9.


The route is located between the classic dihedrals of First Best and Tigger. Rap from chains shared w/ Tigger/FB.


Up to 2".

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By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
May 13, 2011
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b

Let's get a decent description here.

First, I think this is the first 5.9 I've done that has a mandatory move pulling a roof on ringlocks. I've been on some 5.11s that had moves like that.

This is a very good route, and I think it gets overlooked. The rock quality is the very highest for this area, and the crack is clean and sustained.

Start on some blocky looking stuff just left of Tigger, you can get some nut placements in here, then up under the first roof(#3 camalot). Exit right and some easy moves take you under the second main roof. Good hands under the roof narrow to .75s(ringlocks) above. AS I said it is a mandatory pull on ringlocks, but there are some feet. Stays sustained on .75s but then widens again to good hands under the 3RD roof. You can go straight up through the roof in a flaring finger crack or exit right and go up the slab/offwidth. Highly recommended route!
Bring multiple .75s if you got em'
By Jason Hundhausen
From: Bozeman, MT
Aug 9, 2012

Welcome to Montana, where 5.9 gets your attention! Would feel a lot more heady pulling through the roof if you didn't have such excellent pro.
By Erp68
Jun 16, 2015

Hey so I got a red #1 Camalot pretty good and stuck going through the first roof. Rookie move for sure! If anyone gets it out id love to see it again! But shit happens. Could just be a fixed piece so other folks don't have to lose gear. Good luck and thanks!
My number is 6059295777 if you feel so inclined👍
By Matt Wenger
From: Bozeman
Jun 23, 2017

Soft version goes right around upper roof, harder (5.9+/10a) goes left through the flaring roof crack. Super fun route!

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