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Accidental Purist, The T 
Thin Vice T 
Vice Squad TR 

Thin Vice 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Rex Pieper & Keath Nupuf, October 1994
Page Views: 32
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The climb involves near-vertical face climbing along the right side of a striking seam using thin edges and the occasional opening in the seam. Balancy moves lead up to the last pin where intricate footwork and smooth weight transitions gain a small stance at a bolt. The final moves past the bolt involve a lieback to a highstep and a thumb mantle to reach the finishing jugs. Two bolt anchor with hangers only, but an easy downclimb exists to the climber's right.

A very unique and enjoyable climb that favors good technique over raw power. Great rock and a pleasant variety of moves make this a climb to seek out if nearby. Three stars out of five.

Location 

Approach as for the Love Nest block, but instead of turning off for those routes continue east on a good trail that leads to the Planet X area.

Once even with the eastern edge of the rubble pile that the Love Nest is a part of, make a left (heading north) and look for a large round boulder about midway along the east side that's set back slightly (this is directly below the highpoint of the rubble pile). Scramble through brush and a small cave past the base of the The Accidental Purist and then make a quick left to reach this short north-facing wall.

Protection 

3 fixed pins, bolt (5/16"), 2 bolt anchor (3/8")


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