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Lakeside Rock - West Face
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An Eye for an Eye And a Route for a Route T 
Coyote Eggs T 
Fat Man's Folly T,TR 
Laura Scudders T 
Parental Guidance Suggested T 
Shit Sandwich T 
Thin Man's Nightmare T 
X-Rated Tits T 

Thin Man's Nightmare 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 52
Submitted By: Woody Stark on Jan 9, 2004

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BETA PHOTO: Thin Man's Nightmare

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Description 

This route ascends the wide crack to the left of Coyote Eggs. Use the narrow ramp that ascends right to left to enter the bottom of the crack. Small wires are necessary to protect the next few feet until the crack widens. You'll find two mysterious bolts beneath the overhang at the top. The overhang is the crux. I've led this route numerous times and always enjoyed it. One more thing, there's a bolt on the lower face to protect the friction moves getting to the ramp.

Protection 

Be sure to take along the wee wires.


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By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Jan 21, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Did this with TanSlacks and Woody today. The Woodman lead. The rock is a bit chossy, coming up third I looked for areas to place gear should I choose to lead and there were not many solid areas. Small cams, RP's would work but marginal at best. At the crux it would accept good, solid pro........The first bolt before the chimney is a real beauty of a rusted quarter inch buttonhead. All in all a fun route with some decent moves and I am happy Woody lead it................
By Woody Stark
Mar 14, 2005

I don't believe this route gets much attention which is too bad. It has a number of interesting moves of varying catagories and poses some pro problems. Whenever I'm at Lakeside Rock with newbies to the area, I usually take them up this route, and they enjoy it.

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