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Dark Magic 
Left Crack TR 
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Thin Crack T,TR 

Thin Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Mark Wilford and Ken Duncan, 1977.
Page Views: 2,724
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (39)
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Just below the crux.

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  • Description 

    Start out up the obvious crack running up and left, same as Left Crack. Where the crack branches, follow the right crack, moving up and into the top right corner of the roof. Find the best finger jam of your life, in the crack rising up out of the corner of the roof. Move out to the flake and up the crack.

    Protection 

    Long slings. two 15 footers would be perfect. Standard rack for trad.


    Photos of Thin Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Practicing aid on the practice rock.  Placing the ...
    Practicing aid on the practice rock. Placing the ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: A tricky balance before moving up.
    A tricky balance before moving up.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jonathan Tofel makes some extreme moves. No, his s...
    Jonathan Tofel makes some extreme moves. No, his s...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Jon Pineau crunching up over the top.
    Jon Pineau crunching up over the top.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Myke Komarnitsky hanging by the best finger jam of...
    Myke Komarnitsky hanging by the best finger jam of...

    Comments on Thin Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 24, 2008

    As a variation, if one avoids the finger lock above and to the left of the mini-overhand and instead directly tackles the mini-overhand from below (reaching up and to the climber's right for a good flake), this route can be significantly harder (perhaps middle 10s). Anyway, I recommend the variation as it climbs quite differently (I felt like I was on a different route).
    By Mohry
    From: austin TX
    Nov 18, 2008

    This climb is a blast when you go for the onsight. Skip the toprope rehearsals and commit to it and you will love it, it will keep your attention for a 5.9. once you do it the move feels maybe 5.8 but really good.

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