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Shanahan Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beau! T 
Better Offer T 
East Face - North Rib of the Eastern Crag T 
East Face - Northern Shanahan Slab T 
East Face of the Eastern Crag (South) T 
Great Expectations T 
Identity Theft T 
In Broad Daylight T 
Leonine T 
Prune Face T 
South Face T 
Southeast Ridge T 
Southeast Ridge, North Crag T 
Thieves In the Temple T 
Vague Jug Line T 
When It's Right T 
Unsorted Routes:

Thieves In the Temple 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Tony Bubb, Stef VanWychen, 4/17
New Route: Yes
Season: Gets AM shade, and would be hard to access in Winter.
Page Views: 92
Submitted By: Tony B on Apr 9, 2017

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BETA PHOTO: 'Broad Daylight' (5.6) follows the discontinuous c...

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  • Description 

    This is a one-star route that might be a 2-star route if cleaned up.

    Start up on easy (5.4-ish) climbing at the edge of the right side of the dihedral, to access the arete. Continue up a seam and past a horizontal break to a good incut block/flake directly on the arete about 40' up or so. Place a few cams here (red Aliens or purple Camalots) as this is crux protection and is the only thing stopping a potential groundfall. Work up past this using a diagonally left-rising rail on the left and a series of small edges and slopers for feet on the right to get through the thin crux up to a jug (and more protection) on the next ledge.

    From there, ride the moderate arete at no harder than 5.5 to the top with occasional gear.

    At the top of the arete, traverse back in to a 5" diameter tree and a medium cam for a belay at the main wall. Belay there before scrambling down 20 feet to the SE to the rap station on the large (sappy) pine as for South Face. A 60m rope makes it, and I think a 50m might as well. Watch out for pine tar!

    Location 

    A large left-facing dihedral separates the lower and upper halves of the Southern face of the Shanahan Crag. The prominent arete formed by this can be climbed to the left without too much difficulty, though it is a little scruffy and could use a brushing.

    Protection 

    A standard light rack to 3" with 2' slings.

    Double down on purple Camalots or red Aliens in the only good placement before the slightly insecure crux. A green Camalot might also go just around the corner in that slot.


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