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Polly's Crack T,TR 
RDD Crack T,TR 
Robot City S 
Route 21 T,TR 
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Thief in Time S,TR 
Thorazine Dream S,TR 
Unknown T,TR 
Way Beyond Zebra S,TR 

Thief in Time 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Chris Vandiver, Lee Sheftel
Season: year round
Page Views: 803
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Apr 3, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Description 

The steep face just right of Polly's Crack. Very thin, very pumpy face climbing on small holds. Supposedly grabbing the left edge of the face makes it "only" 5.12b.

Location 

The bolted face immediately right of "Polly's Crack". Shown as route number 17 on the Overlook route topo photo.

Protection 

Gear down low in the easy crack to gain the ledge. Then 5 bolts to bolted anchor.


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By Wa3lt
Sep 23, 2009

I could never for the life of me figure out where this route went. It's pretty hard, depending on where you go, but only for a move or two, and there's no well-defined line. Basically, a mediocre boulder problem separated by choss below and easy climbing above.

This is another early 90s route bolted by folks who *really* wanted to climb 5.13 but couldn't find anything hard enough in WR. They ended up bolting anything with hard moves they could find, quality be damned. I don't think I've every seen anyone even attempt this (yours truly being the exception), and for good reason.
By J. Albers
From: Colorado
Apr 13, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Agreed. I got on this once and I thought it was awkward and semi-painful. Didn't bother again after that. The upper face itself is pretty though. Too bad it doesn't climb better.
By George Perkins
From: The Dungeon, NM
Aug 9, 2017
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

Devin and I led this tonight, though we didn't send, our take was more favorable than that of the above posters. I'd do it again:
-Few will bother because it needs trad gear and is pretty hard, but if you've sent the other 11s & 12s on this side of the Overlook, do consider going up there.
-It's 5 bolts (not 6 as listed in the book) to a 2-bolt anchor (no chains, but easy to grab your draws from the top). And, you will probably place 2-3 cams from #0.75 camalot to #3 camalot (extend these with shoulder length runners) on the 5.8 crack that gains the ledge prior to the first bolt.
-Straight up the face (12d) is contrived and involves thin edges and shallow or downsloping pockets, and I couldn't find the patience or strength to figure it out. However, it's the hardest sport climb at White Rock, giving it value as a old-school-style testpiece of sorts.
-If you're not that technical and crimp-honed, step left and climb the arete (12b) leaning off it to clip the same bolts. We found this balancey and rather fun, with a powerful finishing move to jugs. If it were (a) fully bolted, and (b) more people were aware of the natural line (the 12b arete), I think this climb would see more traffic.

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