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Thief Among Us 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Dan Kryger
Page Views: 2,182
Submitted By: Griswald on Aug 6, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The Lower Section on Thief Among Us.


Use pockets and crimps to climb past 7 bolts. One of the best 5.12 rock climbs in the area.


Once you are at "Stone Master" walk left and a trail will bring you to the arrow head wall, following steep scree and vegetation, to an exposed area, above the Main Wall.



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Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on the Thief
Mike on the Thief

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 6, 2016
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 17, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Broken hold up high and the grade is definitely .12d, doesn't change the quality, just a little harder.
By sasquatch
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

So far this season(2014) I've seen three obvious hand holds broken on thief.

The first break was a crimp just below and to the left of the 5th bolt and only impacts the grade of the route if you're really short, and probably not much even then. There's still a crimp there, just a bit lower and angled slightly different.

The second was a crimp below the good two finger pocket you clip the 5th bolt from and doesn't change Thief at all. It did change my sequence on Gypsy, but didn't make it any harder, just a sequence tweak. There is nothing left here.

The third broke yesterday and was the point at the top of the good sidepull that you would use to clip the 6th bolt. This makes the upper crux a bit harder, but again only a tiny amount. The hold is a bit different, but only minorly.

Quite a few small feet have broken as well, but nothing critical. I anticipate a good right hand sidepull crimp between the 4th and 5th bolt will break as well as it sounds pretty hollow. So far I'd say all of the breakage is natural route clean up through traffic, and I'd guess with just a little bit more traffic the route will be immaculate.

So far, none of the breaks would impact the grade.
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
May 22, 2014
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Kevin and I managed to break a few of those small feet as well. I agree, just natural progression with traffic.
By sasquatch
Jun 30, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Two more breaks last Friday, one hand and one foot, both small as well, but in aggregate with the rest of the breaks probably bump this into the 12d range. It is getting cleaner and cleaner though.
By keenan roettger
Jul 13, 2014

Left crimp broke the other day three holds after the long rail (by the 4th bolt I think). Completely gone so the best beta we could find was heading out right on a series of crimps to the juggy horn, then traversing back left using the flake. Adds a few more moves but with a good rest. Pumpy
By Griswald
Aug 7, 2014

Someone glued the hold back on. It probably climbs better with the hold back on, but where do you draw the line between cleaning and chipping/glueing.
By L. Von Dommelheimer
From: Anchorage
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I was sad to see how visible the glue is. At least it wasn't the orange Hilti stuff...but still.
By The Shocker
Aug 7, 2014
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

The full circle of the evolution of a sport route is complete. 2 bolt variations, broken holds, glue, and grade debates. Was fun in 2001. Bummer for everyone late to the party. What ever happened to the guy we named the route after anyway...?
By climberbum2 Kryger
From: wanship, Utah
Oct 13, 2014

That guy is a bum! He is all washed up. Living in a cave some where.
By rock junkie
From: CO/WY
May 30, 2015
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

Not a bad line. The mono was the highlight of the route. Sasha's new project!
By Jared LaVacque
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Sep 6, 2016
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

Anyway...pending comments are on their way. Thief is definitely .12d~ at this point. There are more missing holds and some sequences have changed over the years.The sequence is made less direct in one particular section (to not spoil beta), though avoidable, by making much thinner direct moves, instead of traversing to a jug off right and then back into the route. a hold is epoxied back on, some holds are backed up preemptively. On the move to the mono, the supporting feet that once allowed a person with significant reach to only "hold on" to the mono versus yard on the mono, are far gone, with the last gone this weekend. Thief is still really fun, but it is not at all .12c. It is in a similar state from Todd's comment about it being .12d in 2014.

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