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Therootytookus (Upper) T,S 

Therootytookus (Upper) 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 220'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 6/09
Page Views: 27
Submitted By: applewood on Apr 14, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Therootytookus (upper face pitches)

Description 

THEROOTYTOOKUS (Upper) 5.9 ** (2 pitch) M
A bit of an adventure with a variety of rock, moves and gear needed (wide selection of cams). All belays have bolted anchors. Walk off to the east from the top, or a single 60m rope rap is possible down upper 2 pitches and MERCY STREET on the lower wall. Either climb the lower section of Therootytookus or one of the other Middle Earth routes and scramble up to the base of the upper wall or approach from the east as for the The Ledge routes.

P1 – 5.9 * (110’') M (9b) - From the base of the upper wall (just right of the short corner, and directly above the large pine at the top of the 1st pitch of Therootytookus - lower), follow the bolted line left of center to belay at the large ledge below the short gnarled fir. Some medium and small cams needed.
P2 – 5.8 * (110’') M (7b) - From the ledge mount the lip (#3 cam needed below), and continue up the easier face (small cam needed), to turn the upper overhanging flakes on the right side (cool loose, wedged hand hold…). Traverse left above, to belay just below the top (and the ominous pile of boulders).

Location 

On the upper south face directly above the Middle Earth.

Protection 

mixed - up to 9 bolts and a range of small to large cams or nuts.


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