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6) Middle Earth
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Battle of the Burge S 
Dark End of the Street, The S 
Mercy Street S 
Skyline Route S 
Sledgehammer S 
There and Back Again T 
Therootytookus (Lower) T,S 

Therootytookus (Lower) 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 6/09
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 35
Submitted By: applewood on May 26, 2013

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Description 

THEROOTYTOOKUS (Lower) 5.9- ** (140'’) M (9b) - Pitch 1 is fun, sustained climbing with lots of variety. Begin 15'’ left (w) of BATTLE OF THE BURGE, left of the large fir. Climb the reddish corner (gear protected crux at start) for 20' then continue up and slightly right on sharp incut holds to the smoother upper face, and a belay ledge below the large Ponderosa (2 bolt anchor). Several large, medium and small cams and/or nuts (#3, 2, 1 and .5 camalots) needed at the start and final sections. (Chain anchors located 15' west of the large pine on top for the single rope rappel down MERCY STREET.)

(It is possible to continue up the upper face. To continue on, scramble up the loose scree to the base of the upper wall)
P2 – 5.9 * (110'’) M (9b) - From the base of the upper wall (just right of the short corner), follow the bolted line left of center to belay at the large ledge below the short gnarled fir. Some medium and small cams needed.
P3 – 5.8 * (110'’) M (7b) - From the ledge mount the lip (#3 cam needed below), and continue up the easier face (small cam needed), to turn the upper overhanging flakes on the right side (cool loose, wedged hand hold…). Traverse left above, to belay just below the top (and the ominous pile of boulders).

Location 

Starts at the base of Middle Earth (4th route from left) at the first large corner from the left (left of the large fir tree at the base), and continues up the upper wall for the final 2 pitches.

Protection 

Mixed - several large, medium and small cams and/or nuts (#3, 2, 1 and .5 camalots) needed at the start and final sections.


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