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There She Goes Again 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c PG13 [details]
FA: Mike Carrington
Page Views: 392
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 20, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Brian on the lower section.

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Description 

This is certainly an inviting line and a nice find; however, don't let your guard down until the end, since the crux arrives just before the anchors.

Start just left of a bushed crack-like feature on juggy, bulbous holds. Some gear might calm the nerves if this is at your limit. Note, there is a good-sized flake just down and right of the 1st bolt in the crack-like feature. It didn't come out easily when we checked, but don't rely on it without some protection in or the bolt clipped. Continue up on fun holds to the overlap. Shorter climbers may be stretched to pull over. Play on the face to the left until you get the last bolt clipped. Then stay calm to get the last bit figured out on suddenly much smaller holds to get the top.

Location 

This is currently the 2nd from the right bolted line. It goes up to an overlap and continues on a slab on the left.

Protection 

9 bolts, potentially some gear to start, and a chained 2 bolt anchor.


Photos of There She Goes Again Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Deb (5'5") stretches to surmount the overlap.
Deb (5'5") stretches to surmount the overlap.

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By Dave Clark 5.10
From: Golden, CO
Oct 20, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Difficulty of the crux move at the top varies depending on how far left of the bolt line you venture. Harder close to bolt line, easier to left.
By Leo Paik
Administrator
From: Westminster, Colorado
Oct 21, 2015

FWIW, I don't think we were ever left of the bolt line. It's just a slab move up high that you had to trust your left foot on for one move.
By tyguy5280 Porter
From: Golden, CO
Oct 21, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I thought it was a little thin at the top for a CC 5.9 - I'd call it a 5.10 move up to the last bolt. Great route though!
By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Jun 17, 2016
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

This is a good route. Going left at the top does seem to be the easiest way to go. If you do this, you end up a little above the anchor. The midway roof is fun!

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