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There Goes The Neighborhood 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a PG13 [details]
FA: Peter Gallagher, Bryan Becker 1981
Page Views: 931
Submitted By: Jon Cannon on Jan 24, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Description 

This is a fun alternate line to Silver Spoon. Climb the Spoon to the part where the headwall looms over you. In the middle of that wall is a solitary pin, beckoning alluringly at the adventure to come. What looks like it should be a dyno is actually a very precise footwork move to gain the upper ledges. Slab up to the chains. This is really fun.

PG-13 for the 30'+ run on the slab up to the anchor.

Protection 

Five pins to a fixed anchor.


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By Chris Mack
Jun 9, 2006
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13

This route is great. I would say it is a harder .10, so I will go with the guidebook rating of .10c. The move over the roof requires ultimate commitment. If you don't completely go for it and commit to that move, you are not going to get it. I think this is a tough onsight due to the commitment factor and how precise you must be with your foot. The business portion of this route is super short, but super fun. You just have to do it. I will give it 'PG13' as well since it can be slightly dangerous. Your belayer needs to be solid and paying attention. If you blow the roof move, and there is any extra slack, your shins are going to feel it when you hit the slab below. Probably better just not to fall up there.

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