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There and Back Again 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Tony Schwartz & Chris Hirsch (Ground-up) 5/2015
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 900
Submitted By: Chris Hirsch on May 3, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A really, really great route! Just like the Tolki...

Description 

Very long and enjoyable, meandering, mixed climb. Start up the large left facing flake and follow the next three bolts from there to the angling jug rail. Place a #4. Step left at the 4th bolt. Find a couple more finger size pieces as you trend up right. Follow three more bolts to the belay perch.

Location 

This starts downhill from Right Wight and Thrain/Thror routes. Just left of the small fin of rock holding a couple of large chockstones against the wall. 70m rope rap.

Protection 

7 Bolts
Finger size gear + #4
Bolt anchor w/ rap rings


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By Seth Hogan
From: Frisco, Co
Jul 5, 2015

Sadly I went into this one with gear and didn't use any. It is very runout and any pro you place is going to be marginal at best. The number 4 is a joke, don't bring it. As I rapped, I hung and tried to find more gear placements and all I could come up with is a couple creative marginal slung small horns, and a small placement somewhere around the right trending rail around the 4th bolt, just above the tiny tree growing out of it. The climb itself was good, and all of the bolts do protect the hardest moves. But be prepared for a generally sustained climb with serious run outs between all pieces of pro with a mild touch of route finding, since the bolts are so far apart. Better idea would be to forget about this route and go around to "Fool of a Took."
By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Jul 6, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

So you're giving this route 1 star because you got scared? This is a great route. Great rock with creative and spaced gear, but definitely not for the budding 5.8 or even 5.9 leader. Think of this route as somewhat of a 'test piece' for the harder lines in the needles.
By dreed05
Jul 14, 2015
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Excellent route, with thoughtful bolt spacing and routefinding. finger size gear between bolts were pretty decent, and the #4 placement was certainly good enough for an experienced leader to be satisfied. There was even a good cam placement protecting the moves to the first bolt. Amazing moves on the arete to the anchors!
By Ted Kryzer
From: Rochester, MN
Jul 5, 2016
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Classic route! Route finding and the multiple cruxes kept it interesting from bottom to top. Bring the gear as stated above and it protects just fine, even the #4.
By Ryan Emery
From: Black Hills, SD
Sep 19, 2016
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13

A great route with lots of excitement the whole way up! A very long sustained 5.8+/5.9 pitch. Spectacular! Your time will not be wasted when you climb There and Back Again and still won't be wasted when you go there and back again a second time!

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