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Lumpy Wall
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There and Back Again 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: C. Chaney, 12/05
New Route: Yes
Season: Fall through Spring
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 3, 2006

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Description 

This is a nice, very obscure, very well hidden short easy trad route. It is a left facing dihedral that is initially a finger crack which widens to hands and eventually wider but by the then you are climbing the featured face.

The top out is exciting and exposed.

Location 

When you reach the split for Lumpy Wall at the large boulder continue along Little East Fork of Indian Creek. Cross a tributary and continue until you come to another tributary coming in from the north. Leave the main creek and hike up the ridge on the east side of the second tributary. You’ll pass through a cool pine grove and eventually come to a dense rhododendron thicket at the base of a cliff. Thrash around to the left keeping close to the wall. Look for one of two recesses with three short cracks. Ascend to the ledge halfway up the cliff and traverse right, back toward the main point, looking for a distinct low angle, left facing dihedral.

GPS: -83.6290, 37.8848

Protection 

TCUs, small to medium cams and maybe one fist sized piece. Bring a couple shoulder slings. Very difficult to set up as a slingshot TR. Bette rto belay the second up and rappel back to the ledge to the SE.


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By Chris Chaney
From: Stanton, Kentucky
Oct 3, 2006

This route was first climbed onsight, roped solo when the road was closed to vehicle traffic. I biked from the end of FS 9 to the fire road at the confluence of Little East Fork. From there I hiked in to the wall, did the climb and returned. The round trip was close to 10 miles. It was a great little adventure and I highly recommend the route, though you'll hate me for the approach.

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