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Thelma S,TR 
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YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 4,745
Submitted By: Greg Robertson on Jan 1, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (81)
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This is not too bad. The bolts may be out on the face, but most of the route is climbed on the far side of the arete. Basically follow the chalk up. There are lots of good resting points and confidence building holds.

Eds. note, the anchor is in a detached block.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos of Thelma Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Leanne Hanson enjoying the start of Thelma
Leanne Hanson enjoying the start of Thelma

Comments on Thelma Add Comment
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By Chris Zeller
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2002

I agree, the 5.7 follows the arrette or to the left of the arrette. Follow the chalk. Climbing the face/arrette where the bolts go is harder but doable 5.8-9.
By Lee Smith
Dec 26, 2005

The two bolt anchor at the top of this route is attached firmly to a block which is NOT firmly attached to the main cliff. When viewed from the side you can see air between the block and the face. Earlier this year there was some serious rockfall in the gully right next to this arete, and I have a feeling this whole thing may come down soon. Be careful!
By Matt Gates
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2007

The anchor block may be perched securely but there is a fracture line in the block itself. Its only a matter of time before it splits in two. This route and its neighbor should be "retired". Till then, avoid these like the plague.
By David Brown
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 27, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Going straight up the line of bolts goes at about 5.9.

The hangers on this route are welded cold shuts, I don't know why anyone would trust their life to such crap. If I were going to lead this route, I would replace them with real hangers.

As for the block on the top, it's definitely coming down; the question is when. It will probably take a few hundred freeze/thaw cycles (or a minor earthquake) before it falls. Will it be tomorrow, or in 500 years?
By Ralph Kolva
From: Evergreen, CO
Oct 24, 2008

Did these two climbs on 10/24/2008 and somebody has placed 3 bolts about 10 back from the edge. I would recommend using these to set a top rope anchor and being careful around the top 15 feet of these climbs. Geology happens and eventually the top of the this climb is coming down.
By Free Willie
Apr 6, 2013

There is one head-sized, wedged rock holding this whole thing together. Know this before you climb it.
By Gunkiemike
Aug 28, 2014

Bolts 2 and 3 are spinners.
By curt86iroc
From: Golden, CO
Dec 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Straight up the face is 5.9+.
By Nick Leuck
From: Evergreen, CO
Dec 28, 2015
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The detached block that the anchors are bolted to terrifies me. I didn't see how detached it was until on the route. I did not trust them and instead topped out to the climber's left. The bolts are also free-spinning cold shuts. Not worth it in my opinion. Use your own risk assessment on this route.
By L Kap
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 17, 2017

I didn't notice the issues with the anchor block (yikes), but I did notice that the bolt hangers are old cold shuts and many of them spin when you try to clip them. Same with Louise, the 5.8 / 5.9- to the right on the same formation. Both of these climbs are probably accidents waiting to happen and best avoided.

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