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Theatre Goddess 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 6 pitches, 600', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bryan Bird, Robbie Colbert 2/09
Season: winter sun
Page Views: 495
Submitted By: Courtney Pace on Jan 3, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Pitches 1-2

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1st Pitch- 40m- 5.8/ Start in the very right corner of the prominent pillar in front of Right Mary. Follow the right trending crack away from the corner. Aim for the lower of the 2 obvious trees.

2nd Pitch- Almost a full 60 meter pitch. 5.10 Traverse right on dirty broken ledges until you reach a clean handcrack. Pass a small roof on hands and continue up easier but loose trerrain. Crux of pitch is at the very end, stemming over a bulge protected by a .75 camalot.

3rd Pitch- 60m- 5.10/ This is the best pitch of the day. The FAer’s might have easily had this pitch divided into two. The first 30’ is straight up a corner hand crack, 5.8-5.9. Schwack through a prickly bush. Then move into the base of a chimney (Epinephrine quality!) and climb to the top of the chimney, squeezing out left (a #6 C4 protects the squeeze section, a #4 camalot and medium gear protect the middle of chimney) to the top of the chimney. You can belay at the end of chimney with small to medium gear or continue up a short finger crack roof with jugs above and continue up the chossy gully to the base of next OW pitch.

4th pitch- 5.10/ The 4th pitch highlight is a fun 50’ off-width section in good rock. You'll go in and out of this OW a few times as it constricts and opens. Pretty tight. Large and medium gear protect it nicely. Follow corner up broken and chossy terrain until you reach a big tree at the shoulder. Can be done in 1 or 2 pitches.

Descent- Short scramble to the summit or drop down to the gully for the walk-off. Possible to downclimb but there are lots of trees to rap on. We scrambled about 40 yards and rapped to bottom of gully on 1 70 meter rope. Continue down gully to base of route.

Location 

Right side of the prominent split pillar in the center of the face in a lichen-covered right-facing finger crack.

Protection 

2 ea. .4''-4'' 1 ea #4,5,6 camalot or equivalent


Photos of Theatre Goddess Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4 OW
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4 OW
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3 chimney
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 3 chimney

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