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Lane Peak
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Zipper, The 

The Zipper 

WI2 M2 Steep Snow

Type:  Mixed, Ice, Snow, Alpine, 3 pitches, 1000', Grade II
Original: WI2 M2 Steep Snow [details]
Page Views: 705
Submitted By: Brian McFarlane on Mar 11, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Three primary winter routes on Lane peak.


Mostly snow or ice at about 40-45 degrees. There are three steps that will either be ice or mixed - depending on conditions. The first step is about 15' (second most difficult), the second is about 8' (easiest), the last is about 25' (crux).


This is the most popular climb on the North face. It is the left-leaning couloir in the center of the face that you can see from the road. However, once you begin the approach, it will be hidden behind a ridge. From the basin, hike below the face and climb up a large triangle-shaped feature composed of debris from the upper mountain. At the top of this, angle left and straight up 1000 feet to a dead tree at a notch in the east ridge of the summit block. The couloir is about 45 degrees and 20 feet wide at it's narrowest. After topping out the couloir, traverse southwest over to the standard finish to the summit.


Weather depending, either pickets, ice screws, or a small rack (won't take a lot of pro, but what it does is no bigger than 2"). Anchors are all trad. Can use a 30 meter rope if you are comfortable free climbing or doing a running belay.

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