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The Youth 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 125'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dennis Jackson and Peter Gallagher
Page Views: 1,004
Submitted By: Phil Lauffen on Jun 20, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (15)
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Reopened after flood damage! MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is an awesome climb up the secluded Wiggins Wall. The hairy part is right before the small tree and ledge about halfway up, but it's well-protected.

To descend, scramble to the top and then downclimb the southwest side of the crag or rappel off the south bluff.

Location 

Go south past all the other walls. Go west on a path right before you pass a cave on your right and veer south to the cliff base. Scramble up a third class slab to a belay anchor and ledge.

Protection 

9 bolts, two bolt anchor. Well-protected moves.


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By Stewart M. Green
Jul 15, 2008

Ya got the old grade from the FA on here when it was still loose and evolving. 5.9 now, maybe 5.9+ at the crux if you're short.
By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Oct 13, 2008

You are undoubtedly right! I guess I can't claim to be climbing 5.10s anymore!
By Jsibs Sibray
Nov 30, 2016

Favorite climb on the wall. 6'3" and agree with the 5.9 rating. My shorter climbing partner was sketched out with the mantel clip, and she (5'6") says 5.10 is good for her, but that is with the bravado to get that clip.

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