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Chimney Pond ("South") Basin - Summer Rock Routes
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Wrong Chimney, The T 

The Wrong Chimney 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: Unknown [ as climbed by W. Hastings & R. Hall circa 1968 ]
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Jun 1, 2015  with updates from Ryan Gibbs

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BETA PHOTO: "Wrong Chimney" - Detail of Upper sectio...

Winter climbing/hiking/mountaneering requires a permit


Located to the right of THE Chimney, the "Wrong Chimney" provides access to the excellent class 4 / easy class 5 rib between the two chimneys. [NOTE: MtnPrjct member Ryan Gibbs suggests it is highly probable that this is the same gully/chimney as "False Chimney" in Rock Wilcox's winter ice climbing guide. ]

Scramble up into this chimney and climb it for about 200-300 feet, looking for an exit wall on the left as the central gully becomes steeper and more narrow, eventually the gully actual ends at a gravelly/poor-rock "headwall". [ I think we moved out on P5, but I have no recollection of pitch length, we would have been using a 40m (137 ft) or 150 ft rope.] The exit wall was the crux ( 5.4 -5.5 ?)

Above the exit wall, the rib (keep a bit to the right, see photo of upper section) provides for pleasant and enjoyable Class 4 / easy Class 5 climbing to the ridge just south of Chimney Peak.

I also think that on another day we climbed THE Chimney, and moved right onto the rib that ends exactly on Chimney Peak.


To the right of the "Correct" Chimney (i.e. "The Chimney")


Usual rack

Photos of The Wrong Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Wrong Chimney" - Lower Section, Detail;...
BETA PHOTO: "Wrong Chimney" - Lower Section, Detail;...
Rock Climbing Photo: Lower Section of "The Wrong Chimney", B&...
BETA PHOTO: Lower Section of "The Wrong Chimney", B&...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Winky" [Ward] Hastings Recovers "B...
BETA PHOTO: "Winky" [Ward] Hastings Recovers "B...

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