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Wretched of the Earth, The S 

The Wretched of the Earth 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Charlie Egan
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 372
Submitted By: Charlie Egan on May 29, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Wretched of the Earth

Description 

Three distinct sections separated by two great rests. The first crux is bizarre flared chimney. Pull through this to gain a no hands rest followed by relatively mild climbing above. Save some juice for a bouldery second crux right before the chains.

Don't stop at the lower Heart of Darkness anchor! The route continues up ~15ft to a higher anchor.

I have a feeling this will clean up into a really good route. Now, like all the unclimbed sections of the Jungle Wall, it is unreasonably dusty.

I'm really curious to see where the grade lands. I'm putting it at 12a and that feels about right for my beta on the redpoint. That said, I'm sure someone will figure out a better sequence for the first crux than my wacky kneebar shenanigans, and with less dust on the holds and smears it's very possible that it will feel more like 5.11+.

Location 

Just right of Gorilla Love Affair.

Protection 

Bolts


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By Sean da Costa
From: Portland, OR
Jun 8, 2015
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Mini spoiler alert! There are two (at least) ways do to the lower cruxy section: Charlie's way (the sport climber way involving knee-bars), and my beta (the trad climber way involving off-width moves and hand jams). Either way, that pod is a bit burly.
By Antoine Delorme
From: Portland, OR
Jan 28, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Sent this one today, a very nice route. I thought the start was the most burly part. The pod is not that bad with a hand jam and the side pull out left. For the grade, to keep it right up with the Broughton's sandbag tradition, I would say 11d, as it feels easier than Dracula.
The 3rd bolt was loose and I could move the actual hexagonal bolt by hand. I did not have a wrench with me, but if somebody gets there soon, please give it a good tight.
By dmPete
Apr 17, 2017
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Got on this yesterday and tightened up a couple bolts, one of which was the third. Also noticed that the first two bolts beyond the first Heart of Darkness anchor were pretty rusty looking. The hangers appeared to be in good shape, but the bolt and washers were not.

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