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Frog Prince
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The Worrier or the Warrior 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jason Halladay
Page Views: 102
Submitted By: Jason Halladay on Jul 21, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Nearing the anchors, July 2014.

Thompson Canyon MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The less than perfect rock on this line is somewhat counter-balanced by the impressive position on a blunt arete. Pure sport climbers aren't likely to enjoy the route until it cleans up quite a bit more but if you like a little adventure in your sport climbing and enjoy a bit more of a mental battle, you're more likely to enjoy it. Find out if you're a worrier or warrior [insert overly-dramatic music here.]

Consider stick-clipping the first bolt and pull bouldery moves on great, sharp rock at the undercut start. Delicately mantle up onto the big ledge and move up and right to get established on the rounded prow. Clip the tightly-bolted first three bolts (nobody likes a ledge fall!) and follow flaky rock and pockets to the steep finish.

There's still a good bit of flakiness to the route but it's cleaned up some in a few ascents over a couple weeks. There's good rock underneath, I think. Or it may never clean up. I dunno.

Location 

The first route on the left as you walk towards the cavern on the east side of the Frog Prince area.

Protection 

10 bolts to chains with biners. Belayers may consider a helmet as the route is still exfoliating. But after a five-hour cleaning session, the big dangers have been removed. Also, the undercut start keeps the belayer well-protected from flaky bits that will fall off.


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By Josh Tokioka
From: Cedar City, UT
Jan 8, 2015

This route was so flaky and so much chauce. Literally every move you make, something breaks off. Even the pockets that are there are filled with grit and pebbles, making them not so bomber. I definitely would not climb this again
By skelldify
May 21, 2016
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This route is aesthetic, tall, sustained, has great movement, and a lot of loose/flaky rock! My partner and I were both constantly raining down crumbs and up to golfball-sized rocks. We also each pulled off a good softball plus sized chunk. Seems to be the worst right near the top. Great route otherwise!

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