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World's Toughest Milkman, The T 

The World's Toughest Milkman 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Peder Ourom and Clive Thompson, 1981
Page Views: 2,865
Submitted By: Peter Spindloe on Jan 20, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (79)
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The final flake on The World's Toughest Milkman. ...


While considerably more overhanging than your average 5.8, a series of excellent flakes provide great holds and protection. The final mantel on a great jug will make you smile.


Some medium to large nuts and a single set of cams up to 3 inches should be fine. A 3.5 camalot can be used at the finish if you want to sew it up.

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Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the end of World's Toughest Milkman.  Phot...
Nearing the end of World's Toughest Milkman. Phot...

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By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Oct 13, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Great route, worth the hike. Good warm-up and a fun place to take your beginners who don't have strong fingers but might have big muscles! Is it a 9 or an 8? It's easy either way, but I say the overhang bumps up the grade...haven't seen too many novices pull that last move on their first try.

Protects very well, but save something big if you want to protect that last move.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 5, 2017
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

This is a 5.9 by any measure in Squamish. Good climb, but be solid at the grade down low-good gear is...sparse.

Fun, but probably not top 100 compared to other 5.9s on the list.

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