REI Community
Fluffy Kitten Wall
Select Route:
Wonderful Thing about Tiggers, The T 

The Wonderful Thing about Tiggers 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Original:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Brian Pegg, Andy Durie, 1997. FFA: John Ford, Andy Durie, 1998
Page Views: 2,658
Submitted By: geoff georges on Nov 1, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: First Pitch

Description 

I guess the approach scares people off of this excellent route.
It does tend to be wet on the first approach bit and might seep on the first pitch.
This is a great hot summer day adventure.

Pitch 1) start up ledges to gain dihedral, great cracks and stem box. 5.9 40-50m
Pitch 2) original corner gets really dirty, but still worth doing, 5.8. There is a 5.9 variation that is also good to the left. 30-40m
Pitch 3) sitting on top of the "Scratching Post", down climb past another anchor and start up a long crack system, 5.7. I think we made a gear anchor, 30m
Pitch 4) Fantastic long crack pitch! 40m? ends at 2 good bolts, 2 old bolts on the right, 10b
Pitch 5) thin cracks traverse the face to the left, a bolt protects where the flakes are weak, continue up the good crack reached on the left to bolted anchor. 5.9 or 10a
Pitch 6) continue up crack till you have to transition into face climbing past 2 bolts, getting to the 1st one was the crux for me, making the move at the 3rd bolt is the 10c A0 or 11a move, pretty short but committing feeling above big ledge( there are good holds above this), followed by more 5.9 crack to bolted anchor. 11a or 10cA0.
Pitch 7) slight right traverse and stay left of bulge, then right around right facing dihedral to tree with slings at top.5.9, 20 or 30m

squamishclimbing.com/squamish_...

Location 

Finding the trail can be hard, we drove past it, if you drive under the power lines you have gone too far. You will be directly across the river from the wall and at the top of a particularly rough 4X4 hill, there is a cairn and the river near by, rope bridge on the left. 45min hike up steep hill, right turn at cliff base, a fixed rope leads up wet corner to base of big left facing dihedral. All good bolted anchors, slings on tree at rim of wall.

Protection 

Well protected route with long pitches of mostly crack. Double rack to 3", lots of nuts and extra in small cams. If everyone who climbs this brought up a 4 link 3/8" chain, quick link, wrench, all of the anchors could be upgraded. As of summer 2015, there is good cord/slings on hangers.We took a tag line and left it at the top of pitch 6, did a single rope rap from top back to that anchor and then did double rope raps back to ground. From the top of the 10b anchor we went to the top of the Scratching post. The crack below this eats ropes, we had to climb back up to clear it.


Photos of The Wonderful Thing about Tiggers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fluffy Kitten Wall as seen from road, with approxi...
BETA PHOTO: Fluffy Kitten Wall as seen from road, with approxi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3.
Pitch 3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxy face moves just before the bolts on Pitch 6.
BETA PHOTO: Cruxy face moves just before the bolts on Pitch 6.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 7.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 7.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 5.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 4. This pitch is rather flaring - offset cam...
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 4. This pitch is rather flaring - offset cam...
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 2.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Pitch 1.
Rock Climbing Photo: Fixed rope leading up to Tigger Ledge.
BETA PHOTO: Fixed rope leading up to Tigger Ledge.
Rock Climbing Photo: Last pitch
BETA PHOTO: Last pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: 5th pitch
BETA PHOTO: 5th pitch

Comments on The Wonderful Thing about Tiggers Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jessica T
From: seattle, wa
Nov 1, 2015

Reminded me of Cali granite.

Easy to get to base through steepish well marked trail. Road in has been travelled via many different types of vehicles. Drive until it gets really rocky, park and look for trail marker. You'll know you are on the trail if you cross near a rope bridge (which we crossed for fun at end of day)

Once at base, traverse right for awhile and scramble up some rock steps
By wayne wallace
From: Seattle
Sep 26, 2016

I did a trip report on this outstanding climb. well worth doing especially if it is hot weather! waynewallace.wordpress.com/201...
By npaolini
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 6, 2017

Great climb, easy approach. We managed to drive all the way there in a Subaru Impreza but we scraped a couple times. The worst of the road is at the end so you could just drive until it gets too rough/steep then park and walk without adding much time to your trip. Park at the obvious rockslide wreckage and follow an easy to find trail down to the river, then cross the river on a rope bridge ~20m to your left. All of the route was dry as of Early August.

Double rack to #2 and one #3 would be fine. I had an extra #1 and it was handy.

It makes sense to link pitch 3 (5.7) into pitch 4 (10b) since they are perfectly in line and you'd need to build a gear anchor with no good stance. We did this from the belay at the end of pitch 2 with a 60m rope and had about 3 m to spare, but it would probably be even easier if you shifted the belay down and right first (there is another anchor down there). We also left the tag line hanging at the top of pitch 6 and rapped the last pitch with our single 60m.
By Matthew Tangeman
Aug 31, 2017

Part of what likely keeps some people away is the location's use as an experimental breeding ground for killer mosquitos. Bring your bug dope!

I've certainly driven more rugged roads, but 4WD was nice to have. It's loose more than it is uneven or steep. The trail is well marked with a bright orange sign on the side of the road and is easy to follow. All rap stations are rigged with chains.

Take the left hand 5.9 variation on pitch 2. Awesome clean tips corner! 5.8 looked way dirty.

Also move the belay down and to the right and link the 5.7 pitch with the 10b. They take different gear and there is no good stance on the 5.7. Makes for a calf burning 55m pitch!

The cracks tend to be flaring and mossy, and trap moisture because of this. Keep this in mind if it's rained recently. Double rack to 3 is fine, but make sure this includes plenty of small cams too. Not sure where the extra thin hands size that some have suggested would be used. Totems or other cams that work well in flares would prove useful.

Such a great outing, while I wouldn't want to see it crowded, it would also benefit from more traffic and is fully equipped to be destined for the masses. So much potential up there!
By slim
Administrator
Sep 12, 2017
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

this route has some sections of absolutely stellar rock. the first 3 pitches are pretty good but a bit dirty and rambling. still fun though. the 10b pitch is excellent, although the gear in a few places isn't fisher price. i thought the 5.9 traverse pitch was a bit hairy at the start - the flake is pretty thin and not super solid (very thankful for the bolt here).

the 5.11 pitch is awesome, but be prepared to do some of the hardest climbing on the route a decent ways above gear to get to the first bolt. this section only gets 5.10, but could be in some ways the crux of the route. my partner did a great job on this section. the 5.11 section off the ledge is tricky, but you can hang out there for a while and look it over.

the last pitch is currently really muddy, both in the crack and on the surrounding walls.

nice bolted anchors, easy approach, easy descent. this route should become popular.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About