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The Wizard 

Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V6-7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Rio Rose
Page Views: 259
Submitted By: Graham O. on Jul 18, 2016

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This is a never-done crimp problem that tackles the blunt prow directly below the topout of 'Pygmies and Cornrolls'. It's incredibly sharp and I highly recommend avoiding it unless you are desperate for a tick and even then I feel that you should think about it.

Sit start on a good RH sidepull and bad LH crimp. Bump your right to a sharp crimp, and decide how much you want the send. Do you want it so bad that you would be willing to lose enough skin/blood that you would be out for the day? If so, than continue onward! Jump for a good crimp, and keep an eye on your fingers as they start to throb and bleed. It'll feel like crimping a katana. Hit the slopey crack before jumping to the lip. Topout same as Pygmies and Cornrolls, and curse yourself for ever attempting this god-forsaken pile o' pain.


The blunt prow directly below the topout of Glass Blower.


A few pads and a spotter who is capable of driving you to the hospital if you get arthritis.

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By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jul 18, 2016

Is this the line that starts on the little arete to the right of Glass Blower and then climbs up and left and meets up with glass blower for the big move to the lip? If so I'm pretty sure it was FA'd by Pete Ward, along with another variation that went from the prow and then up and right. My friends sent this line (that you are calling The Wizard) and it's actually not nearly as sharp as you are saying. It's also V8, not v6-7 and was actually worth doing once (so 1 or 2 stars), with a unique thumbdercling used to bump to a sidepull. The right variation is broken and now probably around v10 or something and much sharper.
By Graham O.
Jul 20, 2016

I didn't know that there's a left variation, Im glad to hear that that is better than the straight-up version. I'm talking about the line straight up the prow via insanely sharp crimps. I made the mistake of trying it once(before the breakage that you talked about) and thought it was about v6+ or v7-. I also didn't know it broke, thanks for the update. I hope that the breakage has made it better/less sharp. I assume that it hasn't been repeated since. I'll keep the current grade/rating until I go check it out, but maybe you should post that v8 variation; I'd love to hear about it! By the way, I called it 'The Wizard' because my friend Keith said he was told that that was the case.
By Troy Fauteux
From: Henniker NH
Jul 20, 2016

Hey guys here is a picture of the climb I found hidden in the files of Mountain Project. I agree with everything Graham said. This thing is extremely sharp and worthy of the bomb. Not sure what Jake was talking about. The Glass blower variation I did has the same start as this but climbs left into Glass Blower. Check it out next time your out there Graham!
By Graham O.
Jul 21, 2016

Great, thanks for the photo! I remember seeing that as pic for the Storm Boulders, but couldn't quite recognize the climb. I'll be up there on Sunday, so I'll definitely check it out.
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Jul 23, 2016

Yeah Graham, this line is pretty cool in the beginning, but unfortunately the hardest moves are to heinously sharp stuff that is also quite chossy. Also really hard.

Troy I was talking about the line that you and Aaron did after him and I did Glass Blower.
By Graham O.
Jul 23, 2016

Yeah, it's crazy sharp, the breakage didn't seem to affect it much in terms of difficulty/quality.

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