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3. Fisherman's Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Cheetah T,TR 
Cro-Magnon T,TR 
Diagonal T 
Jane T,TR 
Tarzan T 
Topaz T,TR 
Wizard, The T 

The Wizard 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a PG13 [details]
FA: Marco Fedrizzi, Joseph Healy, Clay Erickson, John McLaughlin, 1986
Page Views: 962
Submitted By: Healyje on Aug 19, 2015

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J. Healy setting the last piece of pro on 'The Wiz...

Description 

Of the four of us, Clay lived in Leominster, whereas the rest of us lived in NH, CT and Boston, but one day Clay says we should come check out CH so we rendezvoused there, did Tarzan. I spied The Wizard, and that was it - it was on. We kept coming back together there over the course of a couple of months to put it up and then never climbed there again as most of our time was spent in the Gunks, Cannon, or CT.

The climb actually starts at the top out of Tarzan, traverses across a couple of old lines, and swings the arete to climb the overhanging face on the other side topping out directly under the hanging block.

While putting it up, we logged a lot of air time turning the arete and off the overhanging face on other side of it and blew through about eighteen Air Voyagers in the process (an old type of screamer once made by Wild Things ), and that included multiple falls per screamer which we kept sport taping back up and reusing until all the bar tacks were blown.

We all gave it about the same number of goes, but Marco came up with the goods and brass ring for the FA.

Great fun.

[ Probably should have called it 'Cheetah' at the time and glad someone finally thought to pay that homage. But we took so many falls and Marco kept saying: "Help me Mr. Wizard, Help me!!!" (from the old Rocky and Bullwinkle cartoons) just before falling and the name stuck ]


Location 

It is on both sides of the corner arete high above Tarzan and Jane.

Protection 

Small wires and cams. All the pro is on the near face side of the arete with the cam in the horizontal slot before swinging the arete being the last piece.


Photos of The Wizard Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John McLaughlin air voyaging....
John McLaughlin air voyaging....
Rock Climbing Photo: Marco after one of many falls.
Marco after one of many falls.
Rock Climbing Photo: Marco getting back on the rock post fall. Note blo...
Marco getting back on the rock post fall. Note blo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marco Fedrizzi turning turtle on a go at The Wizar...
Marco Fedrizzi turning turtle on a go at The Wizar...

Comments on The Wizard Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luc
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Aug 19, 2015

Grade V?
By Healyje
From: PDX
Aug 19, 2015

Sorry, fixed....
By S. Neoh
Aug 20, 2015

Good account of the FA. Doubles to further reduce impact force on key, rigid-stem Friend?
By Healyje
From: PDX
Aug 20, 2015

Thanks. No, the doubles just seemed prudent in keeping pressure off a sort of circularly equalized nest of micro stoppers (prior to the cam) which had a screamer on it as well. We also sliced the screamer bartacks at a steep angle with a razor blade in a bid to soften the loading curve on the nest. The screamer on the cam was what took care of the rigid cam stem and is probably unnecessary today as the horizontal slot itself is basically truck.
By losbill
Aug 24, 2015

Thanks for the route addition and history. I was telling Al Rubin about the route this weekend during a general Crow Hill discussion. He was surprised he had never heard of it. I couldn't remember the name or details. Now I can point him here. Not that either of us are ever likely to do it!
By Healyje
From: PDX
Aug 24, 2015

As I said, we kind of blitzed in and out just doing Tarzan and then putting up The Wizard. Something about the army guys trying to kill themselves and throwing stun grenades around kind of put us off to the place after a couple of altercations with them. I've posted a picture of Marco on it occasionally on ST and mentioned it to Ed Webster, but otherwise it was all pretty stealth from a historical perspective.
By Dan Knisell
Sep 17, 2016

Any idea what the route to the left of the diving board is called? Looking at the pic of Healy, he's on a decent matching crimp. There's a sidepull crimp to a big move to the horizontal crack above his head. Easy topout from there.
By Healyje
From: PDX
Sep 18, 2016

Give it a whirl, we were trying to do the wall around the corner and top out under the diving board. It was also the path of least resistance once you're up there, but again, give it a go and report back. Would love to read a trip report.