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The White Whale 

YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.13a French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E6 6c [details]
FA: Kevin Capps
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt, 1 Anchor Bolt [details]
Season: gets morning sun
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: SteveZ on Nov 28, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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  • Description 

    Begin up an easy gully, that's a little gritty, to a high first bolt. From a nice ledge, fire into the crux at the first set of overlaps. Burly crimping or an inobvious sloper sequence puts you at a stance before the pumpy headwall. Continuous face climbing takes you up to and traverses right under the final roof to the anchor.


    This is the 2nd bolted route after a short scramble to a nice ledge on the right side of Highlander.


    7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.

    Comments on The White Whale Add Comment
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    By monkeyvanya
    From: Denver, CO
    Sep 26, 2016

    Powerful crux in the beginning, followed by a pumpy one to the top - very fun route on mostly excellent rock.

    I wonder, however, if any holds broke on the left sequence of the lower crux. I saw a few tick marks going up at 10-11 o'clock from the 3rd bolt but no obvious sequence through them. On the other hand, there was a very fun dynamic set of 5.12+ moves taking you at 2 o'clock to a jug on the arete. Unfortunately, at that point, you are 3-5' right of the bolt and away from the wall, with your body swinging out. If you blow it, the fall can be pretty unpleasant. It's not too bad with a soft catch, but your belayer also has to worry about you not hitting the left slope of the starting gully.

    Has anyone else tried it recently? Maybe, if there is no longer a left sequence, the 3rd bolt can be moved to the right side of the open book?
    By Kevin Capps
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 26, 2016
    rating: 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c

    I haven't been on it in a couple years, but maybe I'll check it out and see if any of the little credit card crimps out left broke off. It is a great winter spot, since it gets sun in the morning. Glad you enjoyed it!
    By Adam Peters
    From: Salt Lake City, Utah
    Oct 4, 2016

    I was on this last winter. There is a way through the smallish holds...I don't remember exactly how I did it, but it took some contemplating. Knee scum???

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