This climb is located on the slab/face BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge and starts, essentially, on the ground at the base of the cliff.
While listed as "1 pitch climb" it is necessary to climb a second pitch on the "upper slab" to reach the normal access point...the top of the cliff.
ACCESS - Rap with two ropes from the 3/8" bolt (with gear back-up) at the top of Ringwraith to the double bolt anchor/station at the Half-Way Ledge. From here rap with two ropes to the bottom of the cliff.
P1 - We did this as a Top Rope though the Dbl bolt anchor on the Half-Way ledge. (Starting 35m down, on a ledge several feet above the starting ledge of "Out of the Wilderness".) Leading it would be at least "R" rated. Think "Arrow" at the Gunks, without the bolts. (as Arrow, was first led!)
Pad easily up the low angle slab headed for the white slab of rock about 15-20 ft left of "Out of the Wilderness". Climb straight up to the dbl bolt anchor/station on the Half-Way Ledge. 140 ft 5.7 +/- ?
Finish on one of the routes on the Upper Face, Catch 22 is suggested to maintain the grade.
On the bottom slab, BELOW the Half-Way Tree Ledge
Very little protection, especially on the crux "White Face": some "holes" that would take medium-sized cams (e.g. #0.5, purple; #1, green Camalots) or TriCams; also thin wires.
|Comments on "The White Face" (on Bottom Slab)