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Whimper of Our Discontent, The T 

The Whimper of Our Discontent 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: TooTall Tim Davis & Tony Bubb, 6/08
New Route: Yes
Season: Faces West
Page Views: 366
Submitted By: Tony B on Jun 23, 2008

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  • Description 

    More Steinbeck on the mind here, and my favorite fiction book of all time.
    While this climb was indeed named after a "loose" flake on it, but as it turns out it was not loose at all. In fact, after some genuine effort, it was un-freeable. We were discussing the name 'Flakes Of Wrath' but in hindsight, that name has been taken.


    The center of 3 cracks on the West Face holds a flake about 3 or 4 meters up that juts out quite strangely. Climb this crack and offset system to the top of the crag.


    A standard light rack. The flake 10' up seems to be a ball-and-socket and can not seem to be removed, but does wobble a bit and so is less than ideal for gear. Start off with a small-ish stopper and a small Alien (green?) in a small crack, then go up and over. The big flake is a bomber hand/foot.

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