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The Whetterbox 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Mike Artz, Doug Reed. 1988
Page Views: 75
Submitted By: Kevin Umbel on May 16, 2017

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Clipping the first pin

Writing in chalk MORE INFO >>>


Begin at the base of a chimney on a mud ramp. Probably best to stick clip the first low bolt, then wiggle up and step onto the left wall and preform a technical and balancy move leftward towards a left rising positive flake. Climb up and slightly right to the routes namesake hold and get great gear. Follow holds up to a pin (can be backed up with a blue slider) and a good stance, then prepare to knuckle down thru another pin and bolt. Follow easier terrain up to a tree for an anchor. A thought provoking and technical masterpiece. Classic NRG mixed climbing.


This route is located to the left after you walk past the classic arete 'Le Futuriste'. Walk up the hill to the corner system and locate the chimney where you'll start.


This route only requires two or three pieces of gear. You'd be totally safe with carrying a purple TCU thru a .4 Camalot. A blue slider is nice to back up the first pin as it is starting to show its age. Also carry a few 2' slings, you'll need to be creative with one of them. And a few quickdraws.

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