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Wheel, The T 

The Wheel 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Alex Bury (GU 2014)
New Route: Yes
Season: any
Page Views: 1,662
Submitted By: Alex Bury on Mar 21, 2014

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Retrieving gear after the first ascent.


A steep hand crack, 200 feet above the creek.
The crack heads out a roof and then carves around an incredibly positioned block of conglomerate.
The crux is short and comes right off the belay; easier but steep moves lead to the top.


Approach via Riparian Daydream.


Midsize cams.

Photos of The Wheel Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 'The Wheel' is the steep crack splitting the summi...
'The Wheel' is the steep crack splitting the summi...

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By Alex Bury
From: Ojai, CA
Mar 21, 2014

Dev. Notes:
This crack had been pointed out to me since I first started climbing at Wheeler, and I would often look up and appreciate a certain aura about it. When I eventually decided to check it out, I was determined to do it in good traditional style, and succeeded after a few attempts and one revisit.
Michael Kaffel had volunteered to follow me up the backside and see if we could even get to the start. It was late in the day, so I figured we would be lucky to get there before dark. I planned to rig a fixed line, allowing for quick access later, and grabbed the cams last minute in a "what-the-heck" gesture.
A full pitch of vertical bushwacking landed me on the ridge, where I rigged a line and Mike jugged up. A prominent block on the ridge seemed like it might be the backside of the climb. A short, tethered step around the side revealed the route, and a perfectly positioned ledge for the belay. Things looked really good, and combined with the exposure, my heart started racing.
We still had a bit of light left and I could not resist giving it a go. We hadn't brought a bolt kit, so the belay consisted of a section of rope rigged to a bush. I could place a solid, red camalot while standing on the ledge, but further placements would require actually climbing.
The onsight attempt ended at the lip, pulling off a couple cobbles, then finally pumping out and falling on the red cam. The short drop back down to the belay ledge was safe enough, with my feet landing lightly next to Mike. I gave it two or three more tries from the start and got spat off in the same spot. Darkness set upon us and I threw in the towel.
Mike told me it would be two weeks before he could join me again. I spent those days mentally reviewing the scene at the lip and considering a different sequence. When we finally returned, I was able to dispatch the line first go.
By Jon Hartmann
From: Ojai, CA
Mar 22, 2014

I looked at this climb from below Ezra and Alex, you're 1 crazy guy... Great job climbing this line. Very impressive.
By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 22, 2014

I've stared at this for over a decade. Even tried to scramble up on 2 different occasions to check it out. The approach alone turned me back. Solid work.

Alex, have you looked at the wall up and right from the top of Danger Boy & Velocity Boy? You might be just the person to open that awesome looking wall.
By Cole Gibson
Mar 31, 2014

Looks like the coolest new climb to go down in Ojai for quite some time. Congrats dude! Hopefully I have the balls to give it a shot...

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