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Unsorted Routes:

The Whale 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 45'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Kevin Wagoner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 182
Submitted By: Michael A Parker on Jan 28, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Michael prepares to move out of the dark and into ...

Description 

The Whale is a very unique and striking route that starts in the back of a beautiful cave, moves into a roof chimney, then transitions out to the face and finishes up a shallow dihedra.. The crux is pulling into the narrow chimney from a hanging start. Once in the chimney, get as high as you can to find a sweet crack that runs along the roof of the chimney that just devours gear. Traverse about 15 feet up and out through the chimney and then transition onto the face. The world opens up as you leave the cave and get onto the cliff face. Easy, but terribly fun climbing awaits you as you cruise your way to the top on good holds through a shallow dihedral. Currently you must top out the route and carefully make your way up a sloping ridge line to get to a tree to build your anchor. I highly recommend both the climber and belayer wear a helmet on this one. Any fall will have the climber pendulum through a narrow chimney and pull the belayer up into a jagged roof.

Once cleaned up and loose rocks removed, I could see this route becoming a 4 star classic. It is truly an inspiring line.

Location 

This route starts in the back of a massive cave and climbs the right of 2 obvious, massive crack/chimney systems.

Protection 

Standard Rack up to #4. May want doubles of mid size pieces. Tree anchor well back from the face.


Photos of The Whale Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin racks up for his FA attempt of The Whale.  T...
BETA PHOTO: Kevin racks up for his FA attempt of The Whale. T...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin pulls into the chimney from the hanging star...
Kevin pulls into the chimney from the hanging star...
Rock Climbing Photo: Kevin is preparing to transition out of the chimne...
Kevin is preparing to transition out of the chimne...
Rock Climbing Photo: The route starts back in a cave that can't be ...
BETA PHOTO: The route starts back in a cave that can't be ...

Comments on The Whale Add Comment
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By Kevin Wagoner
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Jan 28, 2017

The coolest most interesting trad pitch I have done.
Rock Climbing Photo: End of roof chimney before turning to the face cra...
End of roof chimney before turning to the face crack
By Rob wagner
Jan 29, 2017

I was gona climb it.....but they wouldn't let me.....ho hum!!!
By Kevin Wagoner
From: Broken Arrow, Oklahoma
Jan 31, 2017

Don't rate until you can climb it Wagner
By Michael A Parker
From: Tulsa, OK
Feb 7, 2017

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