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Whale, The T,TR 

The Whale 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
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Page Views: 1,149
Submitted By: Pal Pocsi on Nov 1, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The Whale 5.6

Description 

There is a huge right facing corner towards the left end of the cliff. Climb up to the big ledge in this corner and then step right to follow the crack straight up to a small overhang. Clear this and follow the crack above and slightly to the right to the top of the cliff.

This route was pretty dirty and I ended up pulling out a lot of leaves and mud. Pretty fun none the less. Cool moves and no discernible crux.

Protection 

Trad gear to a couple of large trees at the top of the cliff for a belay. I recommend some larger cams for the cracks. I used a #1 and two #2 BD Camalots. There were a number of options for protection. Can also be top roped from the trees with some longer webbing or static rope.


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By James G.
From: Norwich, ct
May 10, 2013

This route was very fun and easy from top to bottom. No real crux to report, but watch out for mud and some lichen every once and a while. Bring a brush to get some of the holds nice and clean. Otherwise, great climb.

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