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The Western Wing & Alcove

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
357 aka Angel (free version) T 
Alien Encounters T 
Endurance, The T 
French Free T 
Green Eggs and Cams T 
Jug Monkey T 
On Green Dolphin Street T 
Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention T 

The Western Wing & Alcove Rock Climbing 

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Location: 44.0338, -71.4019 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,869
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: M Sprague on May 8, 2010
This Afternoon

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BETA PHOTO: Alcove of the Western Wing


To the left of the Main Wall, past 2 slabs is an east facing, steep section of cliff approximately 250 feet tall, that angles down the hill. This area is notable for the steep, featured yellow alcove. Around the toe, to the left is a large area (The Western Wing)of mostly undeveloped rock that looks to hold more potential. There are a number of dramatic and steep lines at the Alcove. All the routes here have been explored and put up using some aid, but most look worthy of attempting to free. This is an obvious spot for new-routers looking for quality, but it will require quite a lot of work to do it well, logistically, trundling and cleaning. There is great potential, but this is generally not a good spot for a novice new-router.

Getting There 

To approach the Alcove first get yourself to the Main Wall. Taking the high trail along the ridge above the NE Crags will save you 10-15 min and some up and down. Once at the Main Wall, head left, past the great Arch and near the base of the route House Made of Dawn look for a cairn and trail leading out from the cliff. Almost immediately it splits. Take the left branch (right goes up to the left side of the Main Wall) traversing the hill, angling up between two intervening slabs to reach the upper end of the Alcove. It is about a 10 minute hike from the Main Wall.

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Central) area.

Weather station 10.7 miles from here

8 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]

Featured Route For The Western Wing & Alcove
Rock Climbing Photo: Pick you Crack topo

Pick Yer Crack aka Divine Intervention 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Central) : ... : The Western Wing & Alcove
Brushy low angle climbing to a beautiful splitter finger crack, tips to rattly fingers. Might be a fixed LA down low getting to the splitter? The route was lead with mixed free/aid and top roped clean. In 2013 a variant was freed by Conor Cliffe and Tom Draper at 10c using a different start, beginning just left of the start of Angel (357) and moving left around the arete to gain the crack. See note below...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Comments on The Western Wing & Alcove Add Comment
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By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010
Steve Dupuis did some lines with John Sykes out here but I don't have info on them.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 10, 2010
Looks sick, I'll be out there for sure. Mark, do I need the bike for the trip out? Or will you show me the way in.
By M Sprague
From: New England
May 10, 2010
Edit- 2016 It is probably an approximately 1.5 hr hike from the car to the Alcove via the Main Wall using the approach from Sawyer Pond Trail, a little more with a big load. No bikes used the new way in.
By john strand
From: southern colo
May 10, 2010
I first went in w/o a ride and it took 4 hours from BNR. Watch out for bugs- they ate Jim Dunn !
By Aaron Rashaw
May 10, 2010
We used to go in from the Kanc somewhere between the Kancamagus overlook and Sabbaday Falls heading North and East. There was an immediate stream crossing that was easy then you basically linked clear cuts until below the West Slabs. Seemed like we had it pretty wired. I have an email in to Steve Dupuis for more exact details.
By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
May 11, 2010
Mark, that would be great. I'm sure Todd would be in as well. He and I leave for the Valley in a few weeks but I'd be pumped to get out before we go for a tour. And I'd be happy to go anytime after I get back. Sounds like a good summer project!

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