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Weirdo Next Door, The T 

The Weirdo Next Door 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Chris Small, 2014
Page Views: 29
Submitted By: Mark Roberts on Jul 27, 2014

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Description 

Clip the first bolt of Feeding the Rat (10+) and continue up the ramp to the right (thin gear). At the ledge midway you'll encounter a finger crack that breaks up and left. Follow this to a mantle. Climb up and right towards a crescent hand crack below the anchor, finding the hidden gear placement (yellow metolius/yellow C3) before you reach it. Jugs to the anchor.

Location 

Middle of the crag, begins under a left-facing basalt flake, sharing a start with the bolted Feeding The Rat.

Protection 

One bolt, small gear to a #2 Camalot. Chain anchors.


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