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The Weasel Formation

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Belfry Tower. Hells Bells. T 
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry T 
Devastator Tower T 
Horus Tower T 
Little Weasel Spire T 
Live Free or Die Tower T 
Ozymandias T 
Rooster, The T 
Sodizin Tower. Bat out of Hell. T 
Worse the Heat, the Better the Beer, The T 

The Weasel Formation Rock Climbing 

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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Nov 9, 2003


75° | 48°

62° | 41°

61° | 41°

58° | 40°

61° | 41°
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Several routes are already recorded on this large expanse of walls and spires. The descriptions and location of these climbs are in the Wall Street to the San Rafael Swell Desert Rock Guide by Eric Bjornstad. Two new spires by three separate routes have been climbed. The rock is mostly of high quality, a type of white Wingate.

Getting There 

From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles south. Turn west(right) on Oil Well Flat Road over a cattle guard. Continue one mile to a Y junction, keep left, and drive 6/10ths mile to road on left. Continue 1.8miles to end of road and camp site for Weasel or the Pinnacle.There is a trail of sorts up the Talis to the right ,best for Pinnacle routes and a shorter but a little more complicated up the talis slope over to the left , at the top of the talus ridge walk right to a couple of slab moves then left to the Weasel climbs Hike up the right talus to the base of the rock and turn right(East) to the Belfy and Sodizin Towers.Left to The Rooster , Worse the heat and routes on the Weasel.

Climbing Season

For the San Rafael Swell - North area.

Weather station 20.5 miles from here

10 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Weasel Formation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Weasel Formation:
Horus Tower   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1     Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 240'   
Belfry Tower. Brits in the Belfry   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1     Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 310'   
Devastator Tower   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 80'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Weasel Formation

Featured Route For The Weasel Formation
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy on the overhanging crack pitch 3

Ozymandias 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C2  Utah : San Rafael Swell : ... : The Weasel Formation
Ozymandias takes a very direct line up the south face to one of the unclimbed summits of The Weasel. It is a demanding and committing route up an impressive face. After the overhanging crack on pitch 3 retreat would be difficult. It starts on the right(east) and behind an 80' detached pinnacle at the foot of a line of cracks and grooves in the centre of the face. P1) A perfect crack using small to medium cams leads past a roof and right into a groove. Follow to anchors on top of a large flak...[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

Photos of The Weasel Formation Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: A)Little Weasel Tower. 5.9 C1 B)Horus Tower.5.8 C1...
BETA PHOTO: A)Little Weasel Tower. 5.9 C1 B)Horus Tower.5.8 C1...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Pinnacle Formation . On the left Is the smalle...
BETA PHOTO: The Pinnacle Formation . On the left Is the smalle...
Rock Climbing Photo: A view of the cental crack line of Ozymandias that...
A view of the cental crack line of Ozymandias that...
Rock Climbing Photo: The large formation on the left is The Weasel area...
BETA PHOTO: The large formation on the left is The Weasel area...

Comments on The Weasel Formation Add Comment
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From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Oct 12, 2004
Note the the above discription taken from the guide Desert Rock III to The Weasel, Breezway , Pinnacle is INCORRECT. Should be.... From the San Rafael River Bridge drive 6.1 miles(NOT 2.2)south to road on the right (west) and cattle guard. Go 1 mile take right hand road. Go 6/10 of a mile take left road. Continue 1.8 miles to camp site at end of road . Path up talus to the right.
By Anonymous Coward
Sep 7, 2005
There is a way to get to the top without gear/ropes, all it requires is a couple hours and a lot of scrambling. scramble up the best looking talus field(south side), once you reach the wall turn right and walk around the entire wall until you get to the north face. from here the sandstone ramps up to the top. there are 2 sections of 4th class, but there are bomber handholds and anyone who pumps oxygen to all the parts of their body should be able to make it up(we took a puppy up and he did fine). once you get to the top enjoy the view and look for a jar with a list of all the mofo's who've been to the top.
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Feb 17, 2007
In Reply to Anon Coward. May I point out the scramble he/she describes is up The Pinnacle not The Weasel.. Paul Ross
By James Garrett
May 18, 2009
Has anyone ever freed the original route on The Weasel...Weasel On The Run? Seth Shaw gave it a pretty good run for its money...he thought the route would become a classic free climb, but doesn't sound like it gets much attention anymore? The hand crack on that route is as good as it gets.

Is the summit register still on top of the Weasel? We placed a Wall/route register also on The Pinnacle (very close to the top down on the south side) that still there? Any other traffic other than PR parties?
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
May 19, 2009
Hi. Have not been on that Northern summit of the Weasel where I assume your register will be located.The only repeat of climbs I know of in this area is of the Belfry Tower via Brits in the Belfry route.

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