The Way Up
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Start just right of 'Schist for Brains'.
The rock is a bit brittle for the first few moves(Maybe stick clip first bolt), so move delicately and in balance.
A 5 foot no fall zone to the second bolt on rounded hand and feet holds(shouldn't deck with attentive belay).
A tricky mantle, following by an easy run out to a big ledge.
The upper section is a little less steep and maybe 5.8 with good moves to the anchors.
10 or so bolts with 2 bolt anchor.
1 rap with 70m rope gets you to tree at bottom of gully. Which then is 15' 3rd class to ground. Or, rap twice.