REI Community
Hornsby's Rock
Select Route:
Pestilence S 
Way It Is, The S 

The Way It Is 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Brent Kertzman and Scott VanOrman '90
Page Views: 39
Submitted By: Peter Gram on Jul 26, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]


On the northwest side of Hornsby's, The Way It Is is the right route of the two bolted lines. Climb through the bolts which are often closely spaced (two are a couple of feet apart). Fixed anchors and a one rope rappel to get off.


bolted route, fixed anchors at the top

Comments on The Way It Is Add Comment
Show which comments
By John Klooster
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 8, 2005
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First bolt is a spinner and second bolt is hanging out of the hole.
By Brent Kertzman
From: Black Hills, SD
Feb 9, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We found there to be problems with the gauging size of both styles of Rawl 5/16" bolts. We had two new 5/16" bits that were sized correct. Thus there are two bolts of dubious quality close together near the bottom. You have my blessing to replace the first two bolts with one bolt near the second location. Oh the problems with hand drilling in the transitional era.

Based on the fact that the bolts were drilled on the lead from free stances, I'm not real certain how this route got catergorized as a sport route. The route makes a safe stepping stone for beginning leaders. The original rating was 5.8 and still seems right in that ballpark.
By Byron J. Hastings
From: Mystic, SD
Sep 6, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Kertzman, get off your lazy ass and go fix this route or get the BHCC to do it. The route is very fun but the bolts leave a little too be desired. The bolt count could be reduced by one if the first two werwe rearranged. There is no real need for another bolt up high... after this is still the Needle last time I checked.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About