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East Bluff North Talus Field
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The Wave Rider 

Hueco: V5 Font: 6C

   
Type:  Boulder
Original:  Hueco: V5 Font: 6C [details]
FA: Remo (A.B.C.)
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,404
Submitted By: Remo on Nov 10, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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The move to the lip. Great problem! Photo Ian.

Description 

To get started grab large block in middle of boulder, get a good left heel-toe cam, left hand pinch, and right hand on good rail. Bump out left to good crimp and fight your way up using smart footwork to gain high side-pull. Committing throw to the finish. So rad!!

Location 

Upper middle of talus field. A couple trees keep it hidden, just move around a bit and you can't miss this boulder.

Protection 

Lots of pads and spotters.


Photos of The Wave Rider Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Done.  Nate
Done. Nate
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the throw to the lip. Photo: Vince
Setting up for the throw to the lip. Photo: Vince
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian sticking the top
Ian sticking the top
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate on the crimps
Nate on the crimps
Rock Climbing Photo: Nate on Wave Rider
Nate on Wave Rider
Rock Climbing Photo: Ian sending the Wave Rider
Ian sending the Wave Rider
Rock Climbing Photo: Remo working Wave Rider in late November.
Remo working Wave Rider in late November.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nic getting in a quick send.
Nic getting in a quick send.
Rock Climbing Photo: Getting into the upper side-pull. Photo: Vince
Getting into the upper side-pull. Photo: Vince
Rock Climbing Photo: Gaining the crimp. Photo: Vince
Gaining the crimp. Photo: Vince
Rock Climbing Photo: Wave Rider Roof.
Wave Rider Roof.
Rock Climbing Photo: The Wave Rider goes up left side of boulder.
The Wave Rider goes up left side of boulder.

Comments on The Wave Rider Add Comment
Show which comments
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 1, 2009

So I only checked this out briefly and didn't try it because I ran out of time and was also not sure about climbing it on my own with the landing sloping away and not having a spotter. I didn't examine to closely but the feature is definately rad. Not that wide though which made me think that there are 2 lines. one using the left arete and the roof face and one using the right arete and the roof face. Not certain about a line up the middle or not. I think the left arete will be harder because of the slopey nature of the top out. This block is straight up from the 36th parking spot from the left if ur facing the talus.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Dec 2, 2009

The left arete was the line I was eyeing. Your right there could be a couple lines.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Dec 2, 2009

Yeah I wanted to try it but with the sloped landing and being by myself i wasn't confident to try it. plus i kind of ran out of daylight.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
Mar 16, 2010

This boulder is so good! We built up a good landing zone to make it a little more secure. Still a very scary and heart pumping climb. Not as difficult as once thought, but still amazingly fun.
By sweatpants
From: Broomfield, CO
Mar 17, 2010

great work man!!! looks like a blast. glad to hear about the landing. it was a bit intimidating when i thought about trying it solo.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 8, 2013
rating: V6 7A

I had wanted to try this since the first "project" photos were posted in late 2009. A group of finally went and had a little send train. We all agreed it was more like V6 based on comparable problems, continuing the Remo FA sandbag trend (not that that's a bad thing). Excellent problem.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 9, 2013
rating: V6 7A



I don't have anyone sending but you get the idea. Huck for a jug on the left side top and top it out.
By Remo
From: Madison, WI
May 9, 2013

Chris, did anyone use the upper side-pull? The throw to the lip isn't so bad from there.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
May 9, 2013
rating: V6 7A

None of us used the upper sidepull. That hold felt very greasy, maybe cuz it was kind of a humid morning. Using that seems like it would have made the move easier for sure. We had to brush the crimps between each go.
By Ian CB
May 9, 2013
rating: V6 7A

We tried that upper sidepull. It felt better from the lower crimp that day. Also, this is a bad ass climb and it should get more traffic. You can fall of the last big move and be fine with a few pads and a spotter to insure you don't lose you balance and go down the hill...

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