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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 
Inspectrum T 
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 
Pillars of Dickulese T 
Watermelon, The T 
What's Up Yankee?  T 
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 

The Watermelon 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c R [details]
FA: Kurt Winkler & Lee Gerstein Oct 15, 1991
Page Views: 43
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Oct 26, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: START of Watermellon. About 25 ft LEFT of the end...

Description 

Like it's neighbor "Wit's End", I'd "up" the star rating if you are solid at 5.9-5.10 and are good at mantel moves. The horizontal ledge was brushed in 2014. Maybe Kurt will allow a retro-bolt to be placed, mmm?

START About 25 ft left of the end of the tree ledge (i.e. about 50 ft right of the start of the ledge) where a watermelon-sized and shaped formation [see photo] is located about 5-6ft off the ground.

P1 - Curently, there's no gear for any of the hard moves. Step onto the obvious first foothold to the right of the Watermelon, then make a delicate move left (5.8+? / 5.9-?) and another move up onto/into the watermelon. Then mantel onto the horizontal ledge (5.8? / 5.8+? R/X).

Now, I'd say Kurt probably climbed straight up the slab above the horizontal (5.7+R/X / 5.8R/X) but an alternative is to move 5-6 ft right (5.4 +/-) to a 2nd 2"-3" ledge and THEN climb up (5.5 +/-) the beautiful golden rock. [I would think the two "variations" join about 15-20 ft up.] The 'natural line' seems to "flow" to the right of a streak of lichen. At about 50-60 ft up good gear can be had at a small flake on the right, then cross left over the lichen streak to climb more beautiful rock to horizontals and a gear belay (small-med. cams). 160-170 ft 5.8+ R (5.7+/5.8 R/X or 5.5 +/- R)

P2 - (Can be combined with P1 with a 60M rope.) Continue up right [Var] to the ledge with one 6"-diameter live tree (ancient rap sling here) or, 6ft above the tree climb a short, "manky" corner with a tiny white birch above to the very top.

Var: ALTERNATELY, move up and left to the top. 20-30 ft 5.3

Descent- 1) Re-establish the rap anchor on the tree and rap the route with 2 ropes, or..

2) finish up to the top and walk 20-30 ft climber's right to the big pine and make 2 raps with 2 ropes on "Pillars",... or ....
3) continue another 35-40 ft beyond the big pine to the anchor on top of "B-Day Brushings" and make 2 raps with a single FULL LENGTH 70 meter rope.

Protection 

Nothing for the low crux moves, then a TCU placement on the right about 60 +/- ft up, and more gear passing a right-facing flake about 90-100 ft up. Small-to-Med. cams for the gear belay if you don't combine P1 and P2.


Photos of The Watermelon Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The Watermelon formation, with an oak leaf for sca...
BETA PHOTO: The Watermelon formation, with an oak leaf for sca...

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