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The Wasteland

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Fire Sermon, The T,S 
Teenage Wasteland (Sweeny Direct Variation) T,S 
Wasteland, The T 

The Wasteland Rock Climbing 

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Location: 31.94542, -109.96929 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Mike on May 17, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Wasteland Dome (foregroud) and Entrance Dome (rear...


A 600' semi-detached pinnacle between Entrance Dome and Out-of-Towners dome in the East Stronghold.

Getting There 

While driving into the East Stronghold, turn right on a dirt road just after entering the National Forest boundary, directly after a cattleguard. There will also be a sign (unrelated to The Wasteland) on the right side of the road at the turn-off. Take the dirt road for about 100 yds or so and take the obvious left turn for a very short ways to the parking area. If you miss this last left turn, the dirt road will take you to Batline Dome before ending. Once at the trailhead, take the somewhat braided trails roughly north up a gentle drainage until the trails converge somewhat and head roughly west up a steeper drainage. Follow this just past Entrance dome until a steep drainage enters from the right (roughly north) and scramble up this drainage to the base of The Wasteland.

Climbing Season

Weather station 5.8 miles from here

3 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Wasteland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Wasteland:
The Wasteland   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 6 pitches, 600'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Wasteland

Featured Route For The Wasteland
Rock Climbing Photo: This is The Wasteland as it appears from about hal...

The Wasteland 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : ... : The Wasteland
A great climb. Make sure you are comfortable slinging chickenheads & plates and belaying off of slung chickenheads before attempting this route. P1: Climb the face up and left to a small arch (usually with webbing on it), sling the arch, then head up and right to a belay ledge. P2: Traverse right to the crack/groove and follow it up to a nice belay below short chimney. P3: Climb up and left through the chimney and exit left on top of the small tower, then step across chimney to the main wall...[more]   Browse More Classics in Arizona

Photos of The Wasteland Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: On the last rap
On the last rap
Rock Climbing Photo: Idea of the scenery...this route is out there just...
Idea of the scenery...this route is out there just...
Rock Climbing Photo: The upper part of the Wastelands descent.
The upper part of the Wastelands descent.
Rock Climbing Photo: 9/11/10 Shawn Swenson on approach to Wasteland.
9/11/10 Shawn Swenson on approach to Wasteland.
Rock Climbing Photo: The views from The Wasteland are fantastic! We had...
The views from The Wasteland are fantastic! We had...
Rock Climbing Photo: kyle kent belays from chickenheads on Wasteland.
kyle kent belays from chickenheads on Wasteland.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jason Schrack works through the chimney on pitch 3...
Jason Schrack works through the chimney on pitch 3...
Rock Climbing Photo: Vijay Singh ending pitch four
Vijay Singh ending pitch four

Comments on The Wasteland Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 17, 2014
By BenJamN
From: Washington State
Feb 3, 2010
Whats the lowdown on all the new bolted lines around the wasteland route??? Also this crag should be called "Squid Dome" as the cliff looks much like the mollusk when viewed from the drainage...
By Scott Sellers
Sep 16, 2010
Sept 11 2010 I reached the top of pitch 1 about 9am, full sun and already warm on the rock. After setting 3 pieces in the crack on the left side of the ledge I had just started to tie the anchor figure 8 when yellow jackets began emerging from a hole holding my top piece, a nice #10 stopper. Long story..I managed to kill 6 including the 4 that stung me before my partner climbed up to a tree a little higher up and belayed me up. They followed us up to the tree, we bailed and they followed us down. Planning on returning next month, great looking route!
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up at Wasteland 9/11/10
Looking up at Wasteland 9/11/10
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Sep 20, 2010
Thanks for the heads up and glad to hear you both made it down safe. Bummer to hear they moved into that belay spot. In hindsight, how well do you think it may have worked to belay from around the corner on the way up to 2nd anchor ledge?
By Scott Sellers
Sep 25, 2010
First time on the route for us, I did look to continue but had to consider I was out about 160ft on a 60m and the last 50ft or so had been runnout. I had heard from other climbing partners that there was some "interesting" moves at the start of the second. I quickly looked that way and only saw small gravely ledges with slim hands and no visiable pro in site. Added asking my second to cross paths with yellow jackets, fight/ no chance for flight mode kicked in. Gotta say it's a great looking route, can't wait to try again.
By DaveF Farkas
From: Durango, CO
Dec 23, 2010
Went up to climb The Wasteland and ended up climbing the bolted line up the left from the "Chimney" section. Any ideas out there on a name and grade? Super fun and I mean Super!!!! Great face climbing, airy, and warm.
By Steve Pulver
From: Williston, ND
Dec 26, 2010
DaveF, I think the first bolted line to the right of the start of Wasteland is called Teenage Wasteland. I think its supposed to be 10a, but not really sure.
By DaveF Farkas
From: Durango, CO
Dec 31, 2010
Thanks for the beta. We ended up heading straight up the face after the chimney pitch of Wasteland. I saw the bolts and figured it may be fun. It ended up being a really good time. I loved the exposure.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Feb 2, 2011
If you would like a topo just PM me.

I put together an approach map here:
By Daryl Allan
From: Sierra Vista, AZ
Feb 3, 2011
Nice job Geir. Angel and I took some clippers up a couple months back and trimmed back quite a bit of agave points and other thorn - laden things that had taken over the path. It still could use tidying up in a few spots though.
By Toast with Butter
From: Tempe, AZ
Nov 14, 2011
i was also wondering about the bolted route left of the wasteland, the bolts looked great and it seemed 5.9ish on the 1.5 pitches of it i did
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 14, 2011
That climb is called "the fire sermon."
By Erik Hanschen
Feb 17, 2014
Did The Wasteland today and had SO much fun. Great route! However, we did the alternative (north) descent and one rope got hopelessly stuck on the last rappel. If anybody gets to it before I do, I'm happy to pick it up from you and provide due compensation (Of course you can keep it if you so choose, I did abandon it...). It's a 8 mm gray Edelrid half rope.

At the same time, we found a double length BD dyneema; if it's yours, PM me, I won't use it.


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