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The Wasteland

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Automatic Leg Spreader S 
Beast with Two Backs, The S 
Beast, The S 
Believe It S 
Capuccino S 
Community Service S 
Espresso S 
Guilt Parade S 
Gun Shy S 
Java Creek S 
Lady Luck S 
Never Believe S 
Popular Demand S 
Ruckus S 
Slacker S 
Slacker Direct S 
Thieves S 
Vision Thing S 

The Wasteland Rock Climbing 

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Location: 39.70881, -107.69375 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 20,382
Administrators: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Pinklebear on Oct 30, 2001
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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This is where it all began. Contrary to guidebook information, the Wasteland's classic Never Believe (12d) was the first sport route in Rifle. The routes here are short for Rifle, generally ending after 50-80 feet. They more than make up for their lack of length, however, with the beauty of the blue-grey stone and the sustained, powerful nature of the climbing. Many of the older routes, especially in the middle of the cave, have become hyper-polished, so don't feel discouraged if a given route (The Beast for example) feels harder than the grade.

Getting There 

Drive into the Canyon, passing the obvious cave of the Arsenal on the left. Park just past the Arsenal; you'll cross a bridge and turn into a large parking area on the left. Landmarks include an in-situ trash dumspter and a port-a-potty, as well as a sign on the left for the Koper Ice Cave Trail.

This parking area is about a mile and a half from the entrance to the canyon, where the road turns to dirt. Cross the road and take the narrow trail through the thick brush to the base of the crag.

Approach time: 15 seconds.

Climbing Season

Weather station 13.8 miles from here

18 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',8],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in The Wasteland

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Wasteland:
Popular Demand   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Community Service   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
Capuccino   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 125'   
Ruckus   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport   
Automatic Leg Spreader   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   
Gun Shy   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Never Believe   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch   
Espresso   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Slacker   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   
The Beast   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
The Beast with Two Backs   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Thieves   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Vision Thing   5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch   
Slacker Direct   5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 35'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Wasteland

Featured Route For The Wasteland
Rock Climbing Photo: "Resting"  photo by Jay Knower.

Espresso 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b  Colorado : Rifle Mountain Park : The Wasteland
Originally touted as "steeper, longer and harder than The Beast," this route is merely longer. Nevertheless, it's a fun climb up a funky pillar-type feature, and has become pretty popular in recent years.This is the second route from the right in the Wasteland, and is one route right of Gunshy (more or less the last route on the blue/grey sector of the wall). It has gold-shut bolts on it, and climbs over a small roof to start, then up a groove onto a pillar, and through...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

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