The Wasteland Rock Climbing
Minko on Thieves.
This is where it all began. Contrary to guidebook information, the Wasteland's classic Never Believe (12d) was the first sport route in Rifle. The routes here are short for Rifle, generally ending after 50-80 feet. They more than make up for their lack of length, however, with the beauty of the blue-grey stone and the sustained, powerful nature of the climbing. Many of the older routes, especially in the middle of the cave, have become hyper-polished, so don't feel discouraged if a given route (The Beast for example) feels harder than the grade.
Drive into the Canyon, passing the obvious cave of the Arsenal on the left. Park just past the Arsenal; you'll cross a bridge and turn into a large parking area on the left. Landmarks include an in-situ trash dumspter and a port-a-potty, as well as a sign on the left for the Koper Ice Cave Trail.
This parking area is about a mile and a half from the entrance to the canyon, where the road turns to dirt. Cross the road and take the narrow trail through the thick brush to the base of the crag.
Approach time: 15 seconds.
Weather station 13.8 miles from here
18 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',9],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',0]
Classic Climbing Routes in The Wasteland
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Wasteland
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Wasteland:
Capuccino 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 2 pitches, 125'
Ruckus 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Gun Shy 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch
Espresso 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Slacker 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport, 1 pitch, 30'
The Beast 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch
Thieves 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport, 1 pitch
Featured Route For The Wasteland
Automatic Leg Spreader 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Colorado
: Rifle Mountain Park
: The Wasteland
Easy (5.10) climbing leads to a no-hands rest below the roofed dihedral. Technical stemming and a hidden crimp get you past the first roof and into the crux. Micro-holds and more stemming maneuvers get you to the second roof. Gather your wits for some heads-up climbing and a couple of good holds on the arete with a jug sidepull allows you to clip and pull over the third roof and onto the upper headwall slab. More rests on the upper slab headwall allow you time to contemplate the final crux at th...[more] Browse More Classics in Colorado