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Wasp, The S 

The Wasp 

YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.12c French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: IX- ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Brent Hadley
Page Views: 42
Submitted By: Colby Wayment on Mar 23, 2011

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Description 

The crux hits low, but some gumption is in order on the second half to clip the chains successfully. The route begins up on a ledge 15 feet up from the main ledge about 30 feet left of Tree Crack. It is route #64 in Mike's schoolroom overview photo.

Begin up a slightly overhanging bolted flake . The second bolt seems out of line to the right of the rest of the bolt, but this is where most people make a difficult mantle onto the flake system. I'm tall, and have never successfully stuck that mantle, which I believe is kind of height dependent in favor of shorties, so I figured out a sequence that climbs directly up from bolt one to bolt three using a 1 finger crimp. From there, climb through 20 feet via powerful moves, through thin crimps and micro edges for feet. This sequence ends with a tall stab to close pockets at the 5th bolt. This is considered to be the crux by most.

From here the route eases up, but stays consistent pulling through big moves between crimps and jugs for the next 40 feet.

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