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The Warden 

Hueco: V8 Font: 7B

   
Type:  Trad, Boulder, 25'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Bob Scarpelli
Page Views: 2,277
Submitted By: JNE on Sep 30, 2006

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Locking the chicken wing while controlling the des...

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Description 

One of the hardest crack problems in Vedauwoo. Scarpelli originally started this at the lip on his bum where his monster fists allowed him to get a nice double fist stack. If you don't have big hands, this start may not work for you. Instead you can start with a little left hand crimp on the right and inside the crack and an alright right arm chicken wing. In either case swing your feet up into the crack and head for the constriction above, following the crack to the tall topout. Burly. Another start was recently added, upping the quality of the problem a little in my opinion. This start begins standing at the back of the tunnel at the obvious bomber fist. Use this fist to get up into the tunnel then chimney sideways or whatever out to the constriction at the lip, which you have to go under to get around. It's really not any harder than the original start, just a little less arbitrary of a place to start. Both versions share the same crux. This problem has very bizzarre and cool movement, and it is definitely a classic offwidth problem.

Location 

This is the wide thing to the left of Escape Tunnel.

Protection 

A pad or two is sufficient. When Bob first did this problem it was before crash pads had really caught on. He said he fell many times onto his back and side before he succeeded.


Photos of The Warden Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Edl showing us how it's done on his very ph...
Justin Edl showing us how it's done on his very ph...

Comments on The Warden Add Comment
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By JNE
Jan 11, 2008

Dan, the problem you seem to be describing, and the problem in your pictures is actually escape tunnel, which is a quality flared wide crack as well. The warden is the gaping fissure just to the left of Escape Tunnel.
By Evan Wisheropp
Aug 7, 2017

The last start mentioned really does add to the quality. Fantastic line!

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