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Jumbled Buttress
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The War on Peace 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown, surely climbed by someone long before
Page Views: 219
Submitted By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 29, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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BETA PHOTO: Jumbled Buttress beta. The War on Peace (II 5.7) a...

Description 

Pitch 1 (5.7). Climb the flake feature underneath the aqueduct, go underneath the aqueduct, and move slightly left to gain the next flake feature. Top out on a ledge with a pine tree and a 2 bolt anchor on the reddish wall.

Pitch 2 (5.6). Move belay up and to the right, at the base of a corner that turns slabby. Climb up the corner, step left, and belay at a good ledge with a bunch of scrub oak, or you can continue up the corner via a wide crack, combining pitch 2 with pitch 3.

Pitch 3 (5.5). Climb up the crack on the face and onto a good ledge with a bunch of big blocks and some pine trees. It’s best to establish a belay at the top of this large ledge.

Pitch 4 (5.6). Climb up and right, looking for a blue stopper hammered into a slot. Climb up slabs, with a bolt in the middle, aiming for the topmost slab that angles up and left with a steep wall above. Move up and left on this slab until you can top out the granite with a bolt protecting the final move. Belay on a big ledge with scrub oak and a two bolt anchor.

Descent: Rappel route with 70 meter rope. Rappel from top two pitches and then use the rappel anchor for The Journey. First, make a 35 meter rappel from top pitch to the blocky ledge. Scramble down to the two bolt anchor at the top of pitch 3. Rappel 30 meters to base of pitch 2. Rappel 35 meters from top of The Journey. Or, scramble up and left and to gain the large grassy terrace and then go north to the large pine tree, where a bolted rappel route is found below the tree. Alternatively, you can also scramble south via scree back to the base (not recommended).

Location 

Almost directly across the creek from the Beginner Sla, look for the section of old aqueduct that is still in place and in reasonably good shape. Climb flake features above and below the aqueduct. The start of the route is in a large corner with the previously mentioned flake feature to the right of that corner, providing a great start to the climb.

Approach: to get there, it's easiest to cross No Name Creek if the water levels allow. You can hike down to the creek from a point just upstream from the Beginner Slab, at a large pine tree. Depending on conditions, you can cross No Name Creek by hopping across rocks or at times a log will find purchase and allow for a natural bridge. Be careful for fast moving water in late spring and summer during runoff. If water conditions don't allow a safe or convenient crossing, go on the trail/road to the Poison Ivy Wall, and then descend into No Name Creek and to the base of the route.

Protection 

Standard rack with up to a #5 Camalot (optional) for wide stuff.


Comments on The War on Peace Add Comment
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By drouster
From: Westminster, CO
May 30, 2017

Climbed this route this weekend and had a blast! A solid adventure with a nice backdrop.

We did stray a little from the beta photo on this page (mainly in terms of belays), but it all worked out smoothly. We climbed the first pitch (which I thought might be 5.6?) under the aqueduct, but instead of belaying at the bolts, we chose to build an anchor around the corner (where the current beta says to move the belay to). We then climbed the corner (5.7, good gear, used the #5 for the wide spot) up to the huge ledge, but instead of building an anchor where the beta photo says, we belayed at two solid bolts to the right (in the photo, at the bush a little above the words "wide crack"). From there, we climbed straight up and rejoined the line in the photo.

Not trying to diss on the original submission or anything at all, just adding some more info to the area! Go climb this!
By Michael Schneiter
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
May 30, 2017

Glad you enjoyed the adventure. All good beta. I updated the beta photo as we recently added the bolted belay at the top of the 2nd/3rd pitch and on top of the last pitch, making belays easier and descent much easier.

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