REI Community
El Diablo Spire
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
El Diablo TR 
R U Positive U Can't TR 
Speak in English TR 
Waffer, The T 

The Waffer 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 61
Submitted By: Aaron Hobson on Feb 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: At the first bolt. Photo Stephen Torres.


This short route is located around the corner from El Diablo and can be climbed to reach the anchors of that climb. The easiest route is to start in a crumbly corner and then traverse left to the crack. A little bit harder but more fun is the direct start which pulls straight up on the undermined base of the cliff at around 5.8.


A single bolt is located 20ft off the ground, at the point where one traverses left. Trad gear can be used for the rest of the route. If you climb the direct start, the bolt is your first piece of protection.

There is no fixed anchor for this climb, but one can be set up with a few wires or cams or by tying off on a large boulder at the summit. At least 10 feet of webbing will be needed to utilize the boulder. The bolt anchors for El Diablo are 5 ft beyond and below the boulder.

Photos of The Waffer Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Schuster climbing
Tom Schuster climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Very easy climb, offers a great view from the top....
Very easy climb, offers a great view from the top....
Rock Climbing Photo: Easy route
Easy route

Comments on The Waffer Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Myers
Feb 9, 2009

I enjoyed this route. It makes a nifty short trad lead for beginners like myself, easy at the grade, good stances to fiddle with gear, and a deep crack down the middle that readily took various types of placements. Really easy climbing on the route proper, crux is probably a balancy move after clipping the first bolt and then moving left.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About