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Waco Kid, The T 

The Waco Kid 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeremy Ballou & Jeremy Abbott
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 305
Submitted By: xcrag-corex on Jun 17, 2014

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Mantle!!! Photo by- Scott Levasseur


P1. Climb a rather run out slab slinging trees for protection where available. Belay from a clump of trees 5.3 60 Feet.

P2. Continue up the slabs through some overlaps and flakes until you get to the head wall. Pull the mantle(Crux. Going left may be easier but dirty).....Now stay "Steady as a Rock" and climb the slab past 4 more bolts to the anchors 5.9 90 Feet


20 feet left of Old Route. Start from a perch shared with a living tree and a dead tree at the base of a clean streak up the slab. Can be run in one long pitch. Can rap with a 60m down to the tree belay and then rap the first pitch to the ground


Standard rack. Some bolts.... Ring anchors on top of pitch 2.

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By ben smith
Jun 18, 2014

great work guys! cant wait to go back and try this out!
By xcrag-corex
Jun 18, 2014

Enjoy, and Let us know what you think of the grade Ben!
By xcrag-corex
Aug 2, 2014

Today I went to trundle a flake that was brought to my attention. Upon doing so I was swarmed by bees. The flake is very precarious now. I'll return ASAP to finish the job. Until then climb it with caution
By chinos
Aug 2, 2014

Nice! good to see somebody finally did something over there! looked good, a bit dirty, but potential for sure... I moved on to other things and forgot about that section of cliff. Nice Work Guys!
I will give it a go when i make it back out there
By Robert Hall
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 1, 2016

Was up on "Tears" 6-24-16 and saw 3 gals who had mistaken the start of this climb for the start of "Old Route". I think the leader got to the 5.9 move and then backed off, sounded like she downclimbed it. (Good for her!)

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