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Fisherman Boulder (Fundy Boulder)
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Unsorted Routes:

The Voodoo Child 

Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+

   
Type:  Boulder, 15'
Original:  Hueco: V9-10 Font: 7C+ [details]
FA: Brett Johnston (from Seattle)
Page Views: 783
Submitted By: Noah Doherty on May 8, 2013  with updates from Christian Prellwitz

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Kyle climbing. Don't ask about the goat....

Description 

This climb is vicious. Beta is coming, so stop reading if you don't want it.
Keith broke the original starting foot and banged his chin so now the foot is a couple inches closer to your hand. It makes the first move that much more difficult. From there you hit this wierd sloper undercling bulge in a slab power move and shift your feet to two high bad poppy feet. Then you go super balanced and slow to a high really poor invisible crimp. From there I turn my right foot into the starting goodish crimp and get a toehook hand match on the wild bulge. I found this to really be the only way to get that hand off without going off balance. My arms are at full extension pretty much here. I then got my left hand to a thumbercling intermediate in another bump power move that makes you splutter and quake. I was shut down on the topout. There are just these heinous flat slopers and then a little tiny two finger crystal crimp. I think the next move is a deadpoint to these two good holds and then you top out.

This is one of the hardest slab boulders in the US.

Location 

The Fisherman Boulder, facing the path. It is right to the right of Its Rio Time.

Protection 

A couple pads.


Photos of The Voodoo Child Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The delicate and tenuous finishing moves.
The delicate and tenuous finishing moves.
Rock Climbing Photo: Slab
Slab
Rock Climbing Photo: The technical opening sequence.
The technical opening sequence.
Rock Climbing Photo: A side view of 'Voodoo Child' (v9/10), gives you a...
BETA PHOTO: A side view of 'Voodoo Child' (v9/10), gives you a...
Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the general line for 'Voodoo Chil...
BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the general line for 'Voodoo Chil...

Comments on The Voodoo Child Add Comment
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By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Oct 5, 2015
rating: V9-10 7C+

Well, I sent this mysterious and 'fabled' slab today. This was my second day trying it. The first day, I rapped in, cleaned it, ticked holds and worked out the moves (I have an ankle injury at the moment, so it helps to not repeatedly fall to the ground!).

This one has been on the list for a while, but I've been distracted by lots of other lines. Anyhow, I'm glad I finally got around to it. Very beta intensive and very much a true slab in that you are primarily smearing and hardly edging at all. The moves are very tenuous and stay that way until the end.

Hard to grade something like this, especially since slabs are a strength for me. I'll stick with the v9/10 grade for now. I definitely don't think it's any harder than that. For me, it's somewhere in the solid v9 to soft v10 range.

A beautiful and highly aesthetic line. One of my favorite climbs that I've done in Pway.

I did get some video of the ascent. Not sure when/if I'll get to posting it up. I will post some screen grabs and other photos when I get a chance.

Also, my beta definitely differed from what is described above.
By Ian McAfee
From: Concord, NH
Oct 6, 2015

Nice work Christian! So sick!
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Nov 25, 2016
rating: V9-10 7C+

Here's the long awaited footage of this climb. Keep in mind that part of the magic of this climb is the intricacy of the beta and the process of figuring out the beta. So, watching this takes some of that away. It's something that I enjoy about slabs in particular because often the beta/sequence is less obvious. But, if you're psyched on watching it, here it is. The climb begins at 4:13

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