REI Community
Penny Royal Arches
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Diaphoretic Spasms T 
Euphoria T 
Hindsight T 
Myopia T 
Penny Dreadful T 
Penny Lane T 
Vision, The T 
White Slab T 

The Vision 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Tom Higgins and Tom Gerughty 8/70
Page Views: 406
Submitted By: Bruce Hildenbrand on Aug 26, 2015

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: The gold that is The Vision!

Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A Classic Higgins route up a gold colored wall!

Pitch 1 - climb up a small right facing dihedral and a short 5.8 face to a two-bolt anchor.

Pitch 2 - climb up right then left then back up right past three bolts heading for the left edge of a nice belay ledge. Gear belay.

Pitch 3 - Gold. The money pitch. Head up and left past a bolt to a second bolt. Go straight up to a third bolt. From here traverse right(crux) to a prominent crack. Go up the crack a short ways and belay.

Pitch 4 - climb the crack(fingers and hands - 5.8) to a ledge and belay.

Pitch 5 - a short, easy pitch to low angle slabs and trees ends the climb.

Location 

This route starts just right of the bottom of the right edge of the huge dihedral which splits Pennyroyal Arches. BITD, this was the only route on the face. Now, there are many more. Be careful not to stray onto another route.

The descent is rather cumbersome. From the top of the climb head right on low angled slabs(a rope might come in handy in one spot) to the extreme right edge of the formation and make a tedious 4th class/low 5th class descent.

People have tried to rappel from the trees at the top of the climb and utilize the anchors on some of the climbs below, but there is no established route.

Protection 

Take a full rack of stoppers and cams up to a #3 Camalot.


Comments on The Vision Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About