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The Verge 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a PG13 [details]
FA: 2015
New Route: Yes
Season: May - Oct
Page Views: 66
Submitted By: Jay Harrison on Oct 9, 2015

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Steve starting out on The Verge.


A decent, modest, and fairly well-protected route uncovered by a large tree blowdown on the left edge of the Main Slab.
Climb up twin seams to gap between left-facing corner on the slab and blocks to the left. Continue up left-facing, left-leaning corner to its end, then step up and left to the very edge of the slab before stepping up and right (bolt) onto the last twenty feet of easy friction climbing.
Still a bit rough around the edges.


As its name suggests, this route lies on the extreme edge of the Main Slab. Currently (2015), its base is mossy, and obstructed by an upended dead tree, which handily can be used as the launch point to begin. Rappel from a tree, or downclimb the fourth class gully beside the route. Be aware that a 60m rope may not make the base of the cliff; you may have to escape via the same upended trunk as the start.


Cams from tight fingers to 2", with doubles in the 1 to 2" size. There is one bolt en route.

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